Avoiding Set Backs: Master Pre-Detangling

I'm shifting my thought process around regarding how I view the topic of setbacks.   In the past, I would classify a set back as an incident that resulted in loss of (hair) length.  And, while it's true that losing length does constitute a setback, I also think that remaining the same length for an extended period of time can be likened to a having setback.

Here's why I say that.  In it natural and healthy state, we would retain much of our growth.  I'm sure you've seen progress pics of someone who big chopped 2 years ago and is now enjoying hair past their shoulders.  It's as if they retain most,  if not all of their growth, which is wonderful.  What if we created the expectations of maximum retention for ourselves as well?

In order to do that, we have to find the weaknesses in our regimen and effectively address them.  One of the weak areas for me personally is when I detangle.  I call it a weak area because it's when I experience the most hair loss.  Sure, most of the hair on the comb is shed hair, but I'm sure I can do better managing any detangling related breakage as well.

To do better, I've decided to make sure I implement some pre-detangling actions to minimize the potential damage as much as possible.  Just like how pre-pooing helps minimize damage to the hair on wash day, I'm hoping the pre-detangling will mean less broken hair on the floor whenever we detangle.

Prepare the hair
If your hair is in need of detangling. Chances are it might be dry and a little matted.  That is not the right time to attack it with a comb.  You're only asking for trouble.  Instead, you've got to prepare for the session by priming your hair so it's fully ready to release the shed hair.  Treat it like a game.  Your goal is successfully find and remove all the shed hair and knots without causing one strand to break.  If you can do it successfully, you're winning.

Find out what your hair needs in order to make the detangling session go as smoothly as possible.  Does it need to be moistened?  Then have your spray bottle ready. Does it need the help of detangling products? Then grab your blue bottle of It's a 10.  Does your hair need the power of steam to soften the strands?  Do you need to spray it with oil to help the trapped hairs glide through the madness?  I want you to experiment.  Try some of all of these tips and see how your hair responds.  I know that my hair detangles much more easily when it's moisturized so instead of manipulating dry, parched hair.  So I need to focus on super charging the moisture levels through daily steaming or some other method to increase elasticity.  Elasticity, by the way, is the golden key to detangling without a lot of casualties.  When your hair can stretch, while manipulated, instead of breaking, you have made it to the big leagues.

Another way to prepare the hair is to start at the macro level then focus on the small details.  Start with large sections and gliding your fingers through pre-treated hair. That way you can grab the low hanging fruit, or the hairs that you can easily grab and remove.  One you've completed the entire head, then you can grad your most qualified comb to do the job and start working in small sections.

One more tip, start in your weakest areas first.  The back of my hair seems to get tangles the most.  Before, I would start in the front. By the time I got to the back, I had little patience for those stubborn tangles hiding in the back and I paid severely for it.  Now, I start there and can dedicate as much time as I need to get the job done.

Finally, one other thing to be aware of is how much time you go in between detangling sessions.  When I traveled like mad, I'd detangle once a week on wash days and wore my hair in a bun every day.  That might have been ok if I better prepared for it.  But instead, I would try to detangle parched hair with loads of shed hair trapped in my bun.  If I were to do it all over again, I'd conduct a light session mid-week then do a detailed detangle  pre-moistened hair on Saturdays.

As I mentioned in the last post, the best way to prepare the hair for the manipulation of detangling is to fortify it with protein.  Strong hair is the ultimate win so don't skip your protein treatments.  Heck, sometimes I would saturate my hair with coconut oil overnight before a heavy detangling session. That way, I'm getting the lubrication of the oil, plus additional strength from the absorbed protein.  Worked like a dream.

You can even play around with protein leave-in conditioners like Grund Tiger Protein.  When I was first experimenting with daily steaming.  I decided to braid my hair in two cornrows before getting under the steamer.  Since I was headed under the steamer, I didn't prepare and pre-detangle my hair prior to braiding.  I noticed a little breakage and immediately went into action.  After reaching for the Tiger Protein and misting the length of my hair, the breakage ceased and my hair felt ultra soft and moisturized.  That was the reminder that I needed to always, ALWAYS prepare the hair before heavy manipulation, even before conditioning treatments.

Hopefully, pretangling is one solution that will leads us towards our goal of being as close to 100% retention as possible.

Hair Botox (at home) part II- Success!!!

Majestic Hair Botox | LV Cles

I'm excited to share the second installment of my feedback on the at home Hair Botox treatment.  If you recall, the first go around didn't go so well.  Unfortunately, the Hair Botox formula I purchased contained formaldehyde and I immediately reacted to the chemicals.  I was down, but not out.  The lure of experiencing a true hair botox treatment led me to purchase a second product.

After a decent amount of research, I settled on Majestic Hair Botox.  Although the product doesn't have many reviews on Amazon, they were pretty much all positive.  I bit the bullet and spent $175.00 on a 10 oz bottle.  The product came quickly and included a free small bottle of clarifying shampoo.

Ok, here we go.  First came the scent test.  I need to make sure the product would not irritate like the last one.  After reading the ingredients and confirming that there was on formaldehyde in sight, I began the application process on freshly washed/air dried hair.  This product smells absolutely delightful.  It sorta sweet and reminds me of cherry candy or something.  Because it smelled so good, I took my sweet time applying section by section.

The product itself has the consistency of a watery "cheapie conditioner."  This made it easy to spread down the length of the hair.  My hair immediately responded to the product. If felt like I was applying conditioner to the hair. In return, my hair softened as I rubbed the product in.  I love products that make an immediate impact on the hair.

The plan was this:  After rinsing the instructions state that we're supposed to blow dry and flat iron.  I didn't want to do that.  Instead, I wanted to roller set, as normal so I can compare apples to apples.  Blow drying and flat ironing might give me a false sense of the true outcome.  Once I had a chance to assess the results from the roller set, I would then flat iron the hair (if necessary) to further seal the product in.    Majestic Hair Botox, in raw form, gave my hair a ton of elasticity and softness.  Although it's a keratin containing product, my hair didn't feel AT ALL like it was saturated in a protein conditioner.

Time to rinse.  Unlike the Kashmir Hair Botox, the instructions didn't say that I can use a deep conditioner after rinsing.  Instead, it advises us to begin the drying and flat ironing process.  I rinsed and sat down to roller set.  I'll be honest, my hair did feel like it needed a conditioner.  But I moved forward like a G.  10-15 minutes in, I noticed something.  My hair didn't seem to have as much bulk as normal.  Upon closer examination, I realized that my texture was loosened.  This took me completely by surprise as I didn't expect the product to straighten the hair. I thought it was a strengthening aid and straight hair would come from the blow drying and flat ironing process.  At first I thought I was mistaken, but the more I examined, the more I was convinced that my hair texture was looser than before.

It wasn't straight in the same way as when I touch up.  The texture just was much looser. Even my new growth (3 months post) was less curly.  I guess one way to describe it is like my hair looks/feels about a month or two after touch up.  Now that I'm aware of how this treatment softens the hair, maybe I'll try smoothing it into the new growth, next time, to see if that makes any difference.  I may also dabble with mixing some with my other conditioners and see what happens.

This product has so much potential.  Currently, relaxers/texturizers straighten the hair by dissolving the natural bonds.  This product loosens the curl, while repairing damage (keratin is the 4th ingredient).  The long term implications are huge.  Stretching relaxers beyond your comfort zone will be much easier.  You may find this product could replace your touch ups altogether.

Recently, someone shared a detailed review of the product on Amazon.  I'll post it here so you can read her experience.

Wow! So far so good. Product arrived yesterday - tried it right away. Took about 4 hours for the whole process. Used on coarse, relaxed, shoulder-length hair with about 1 to 2 inches of new growth. Turns out at least 6oz would have been better - started from the back and may have over saturated, so the front got much less product. Will start from the front next time. Bought this & the clarifying shampoo - they included 4oz of both the after care shampoo & conditioner at not charge. Product arrived fast. 

Really this is just a one application size. Long hair may need the next size up. The clarifying shampoo strips your hair of everything. You have to detangle & dry it as is. Application was easy. Maybe I applied too much product or perhaps didn't rinse it out well enough before the flat ironing, but my hair felt dry & brittle while looking soft & shiny. Very straight after flat ironing. This product seems more of a hair softener than straightener, though it did come out super straight, shiny & soft. The hair felt like it really needed moisture / deep conditioner. The next day (today), washed it with their replenishing shampoo & conditioner (came in the box) - added some jamaican black castor oil to the conditioner, put a plastic cap on & sat under the dryer for 10 minutes. Hair still straight after washing. Put light product in it & sat under dryer as is. It dried in 10 minutes. Could have worn it just like that, but chose to flat iron at 340 for a sleek, straight, shiny look. Hair now feels amazing. Looks amazing.
Will definitely buy again in the bigger size. This will replace relaxing if hair remains healthy, and the treatment lasts for 2 months or more. Very, very happy so far.

She's absolutely right about the product size.  Amazon offers three different sizes.  I purchased the middle size (10fl oz) and used about half the bottle in one application.  Next time, I'll scape together all of my pennies and buy the largest size which costs "a lot of money" but is much less expensive per ounce than it's smaller counterparts.   I know the smallest size requires less of an up front investment, but unless you have very short hair, 4 oz may not be enough.  Plus, with a larger bottle,  I can apply using really small sections (and I mean really small), so every strand experiences the product.

The reviewer also made mention of her hair feeling dry.  Since the instructions don't state that we should deep condition, both us skipped this step.  Notice she stated that this is more of a "hair softener" rather than a straightener.  I agree 100%.  You will not get straight hair with this product alone (although the blow dry and flat iron will help).  For me, it loosens/stretches the curl really effectively. But don't expect bone straight hair.

The day after application I co-washed and steamed using a deep conditioning product.  My hair responded well and looked much healthier than before the treatment.   It's been about about a week
since my initial experience and I'm already excited about my next treatment.  According to their website, the treatment can be used as often as one desires since it contains no harmful chemicals (although the results should last up to 3 months).  I'm contemplating another treatment but leaving in much longer (the instructions say to leave in for 75 minutes but I was in a bit of a rush). I may also experiment with sitting under the dryer to deepen the penetration.

My hair has maintained its softness and retains moisture much easier than before.  Breakage has slowed and my hair responds much better to manipulation (not as fragile).   Overall, I would deem this purchase a huge success.  I look forward to trying it again only next time, I'll deep condition after rinsing as normal.  I've experimented with lots of expensive hair treatments but this, by far, is my favorite.  For such an investment, I expect my hair to be different then before treatment.  Majestic Hair Botox has done it's job.  I'm looking forward to using this product to help extend my stretches while helping my hair retain length.  A lot of you have send me emails asking about my experience and I absolutely give it two thumbs up.

Yes it's an investment, but I'm sure a Hair Botox treatment at the salon is much more expensive.  And this product is ultra gentle so it's fool proof.   It just like applying a conditioner.  Although they recommend using gloves, I applied with a Sprush and my bare hands with no ill effects.  This is good stuff, people.

How to use steam in your every day routine to increase your hair's moisture.

When I experimented with frequent washing, my hair thrived.  Retaining moisture seemed much easier and I experienced the benefits from increasing the number of conditioning sessions per month.  But, since I fail miserably at air drying and must roller set after each wash, I couldn't keep up with frequent wash days due to lack of time.

Then I got to thinking, "what if there's a way to add deeper levels of moisture into the strand without having to do a full wash?"  After a few moments, the answer came to me. Steam!  Sure, we all do the LOC method of moisturization. But what if we replaced the "L" (liquid) with "S" (steam)?

Some possible benefits of using steam vs. liquid.

• Steam is water in smaller particles which could mean deeper penetration into the strand.
• Steam can cover the strands more evenly than spraying the hair manually with water.
• Steam could open up the cuticles for better absorption of the other moisturizing products you wish to use.

That was enough for me to move to the next step in the experimentation process.  Next I contemplated what form of steam I should use.

MILD: This is where you just use hints of steam of boost moisture levels ever so slightly.  One of the simplest ways to use just a touch of steam to increase moisture is to test out the Greenhouse method.  Really, this method doesn't incorporate steam in the form that you're familiar with. The Greenhouse method is more about water and heat working together to fuse the hair with moisture.

Simply put, this method can be achieved by applying a plastic cap over the hair and allowing your own body heat to do the work.  Sometimes I'll tie a silk scarf over the cap to further trap in heat.  If I leave the cap on overnight, I wake up with very damp hair in the morning.  If I do it for several minutes, my hair feels softer and ready to receive moisturizer/oil.  

Some claim the heat generated from the Green House Effect stimulates the scalp and promotes healthy hair growth.  I liken it to when someone wears a cast find that their arm hairs are darker, thicker, and long, once the cast is removed.  The warmth and "irritation" to the scalp promotes blood flow which could increase hair growth.

MEDIUM: Sometimes, when my hair is feeling extra dry, I reach for my steam rollers.   Seemed like whenever I used my steam curlers, not only was the hair curly, it was a bit more moisturized.  Then I started to experiment by adding a couple drops of apple cider vinegar to the water to lower the acidity, which helps seal the hair (curbing frizz).   I'd love to experiment with using low pH water as an alternate option to see if the results are similar.


HIGH: On the higher end of the scale there we have steamers.  Steamers range from held held tools like the Q Redew to the steamers we use on wash day.  The last couple of days, I've been playing around with using brief 15 minute steam sessions (under the MicroMist) as a way of elevating moisture.

It went something like this:

Day 1:  My hair was feeling dry and was a bit tangled.  I wanted to see how much moisture the MicroMist would add to dry hair and if it would aid in detangling.  After setting the timer for 15 minutes, I sat under the hood and awaited the final result.  Once the timer went off, I assessed my hair realized that certain areas were damper than others.  The damp areas were really damp (but not wet enough to cause dripping).  Once I was done, I had no definite plan on what to do with the damp hair after the session was over.

Day 2:  After steaming the second day, I braided the damp hair and allowed it to air dry as I completed chores around the house.  When I took down the hair, the waves were defined and moisturized.  The outcome was good, but something was still missing.

Day 3: For my third 15 minute session, I sat on a cushion, to boost me up, so my hair could evenly receive the steam.  This time I decided to mist my hair with Biolage Leave-In (prior to steaming) to take things to the next level.  That was a great move.  Not only was my hair moist, it was conditioned.  This meant that it could better withstand manipulation,  Once the 15 minute session was over, I quickly roller set the damp hair and went to bed.

At this point in the experiment I've identified some clear pros and cons to using steam as part of a daily moisture routine.

PRO: Steam seems to put moisture in the strand vs. normal moisturizing and sealing when we add product directly on the strand.

CON: Steam opens up the cuticle layer of the hair, promoting frizz and volume (not good if you wear sleek hair styles).

CON: Using water alone can have negative effects on the hair, causing dryness and brittleness once the water evaporates.

PRO: My hair is more elastic, it can better sustain manipulation without easily breaking.

Final thoughts:
There are great benefits to using steam, but it requires a bit of thought and planning to make sure you achieve the outcome you want.  Steam is just water in different form.  Just putting water on your hair doesn't respond well. In fact, you might be promoting even more dryness as the water evaporates from the strand. (hydration does not equal moisturization)   You MUST moisturize and seal after you hydrate the hair with steam.  And beyond moisturizing, you have to seal the cuticle layer.  Steam is water + heat which opens the cuticle thereby creating the potential frizz.

The one thing to be mindful of is what you'll do with your hair after steaming.  The easiest way to prevent the frizz is to use steam curlers (correctly).  Or the GHE method for short, measured periods of time.  If you're afraid of sweating out your edges, avoid steam altogether.

The benefits, in my opinion, are worth experimenting until the process is perfected.  My hair went from feeling dry/brittle to moist/hydrated without having to do a full deep conditioning session.   I also experienced increased elasticity which can be quite elusive if you have chemically treated hair.

I'll keep experimenting and tweaking process to make it better. The results are worth it.

Frequent vs. Infrequent Washing| Let's Discuss

When it comes to wash day routines, there are people who find success on two opposite ends of the spectrum.  I'm referring to those who wash frequently and those who don't.  Proponents of frequent wash days boast about increased retention while some advocate leaving the hair alone which also promotes length.

Neither option is right or wrong, but let's discuss some pros and cons of both so you can decide which choice is best for you.

If you wash your hair 2 or more times a week, you can consider yourself a frequent washer.  I've written a complete post on the benefits of this type of regimen.  Basically, you expose your hair to water multiple times a week, thereby increasing moisture levels.  The need for daily moisturizing and sealing diminishes as your hair is better able to retain moisture on its own.

Frequent washers attribute their length retention and progress to this method.  I gave it a go for several weeks and my hair approved.  Unfortunately, since I'm a loser at air drying, which meant that I was roller setting multiple times a week.  Yes, that's a lot of manipulation, but as moisture levels rose, I barely lost any hair.  The time commitment involved caused me to go back weekly wash days, but I'm currently experimenting with an alternative method that I'll write about in an upcoming post.

If you have chronically dry hair, frequent washing may be just the answer you're looking for.  The key to success, using this method, is to manage the manipulation.  If you can find a low manipulation way to handle your hair after cleansing, you're as good as gold.  One other pitfall to be aware of is over moisturizing the hair.  When the hair becomes over saturated with moisture it can feel week causing you to lose out on making any progress.

Lastly, let's never forget the issues of some of WEN's customers who claimed to have experienced hair loss from using their cleansing conditioner.  I saw my mother in law earlier this year who raving about how amazing her hair felt after introducing WEN to her regimen. After complimenting her hair, I advised her other's experiences to which she replied "you may be right, I do notice that I shed more hair when I use their product."  So keep an eye on that kinda stuff just to make sure you aren't doing more harm than good.  But, if you hair loves frequent exposure to water, frequent wash days can take your journey to the next level.

I've met people who wash their hair every few weeks and claim that this is their secret to retention. I get it. Leaving your hair alone can have a huge impact on manipulation related breakage.  Back when I'd get my hair professionally straightened, my hair could go two or more weeks without issue.   It required just a tiny bit of finger combing each day. Detangling was a breeze because shed hairs are easy to remove when your hair is so straight.  If I incurred any breakage, I'd just mist with a little It's a 10 with Keratin and call it a day.  At one point I contemplated using this method to promote retention.  But then I remembered how much manipulation and heat was required to get my hair to that point.

There was a girl at the dominican salon who has the most amazing hair.  Her hair was probably close to waist length, jet black, and had so much volume (think Kenya Moore's hair but a little bit longer).  Based on our brief conversation, she seemed to be a regular patron.  I only visited once every 6 months or so.  A couple years passed, and I decided to visit the salon out of the blue.  That day she just happened to be there, only now, her hair was around bra-strap. It still looked good but no where near where it was during her glory days.  That's realized that my hair wouldn't do well if I tried to keep it bone straight 100% of the time.

Another issue is my scalp.  Going without washing for more than a week can be asking for trouble if you've got scalp issues.  I'm sure the people who can endure extended times between wash days have little scalp concerns.  I had to leverage anti-fungal oils like coconut and essential oils to make it through the experience.

But with all that said, there's some merit to successfully creating a process where the hair can thrive if you only wash once or twice a month.

Many of us, including myself, full under the category of washing once a week.  For me, washing once every 7 days came about out of convenience.  I worked 5 days a week and the weekend was a best time to wash, deep condition and set.  But in all honesty, a once a week wash (in it's current form) isn't optimal since my hair responds better to washing more regularly.  Once a week is adequate but frequent washings would be ideal.  For others who use heavy heat to straighten after washing, extending wash days to every 1.5-2 weeks might give hair hair a much needed break. Or, if weekly is just right, then keep going.

 And by just right, I want you to think of retention as your measure of success.  Retention is made up of how your hair behaves from day to day.  If you're constantly battling dryness and breakage, play around with increasing wash day frequency.  If your hair likes to be left alone to do it's thing, try extending and see what happens. Don't just stick to weekend wash days out of convenience, make sure it's truly adding value to your hair.

I'd love to hear your experience.  Does your hair thrive more when its washed frequently or when left alone?

Detangling tips for those with fragile hair.

I clearly remember when the Tangle Teezer first came out.  Everyone raved on how easily it glided through the hair like a hot knife through butter.  Immediately ran into the nearest Sally's store and purchased two of them.  Once home, I tested the teezer on a small section of hair.  Then I examined the plastic detangler for final results.

What I saw was quite disturbing. Broken strands lodged between the Tangle Teezer's viscous teeth of death.  "Maybe I used it wrong", I thought, as I removed the hairs to try again.  I crossed my fingers and went a second round.  Again, more broken hairs.  After (unsuccessfully) trying again a week or two later, I realized that I was fighting a losing battle and finally gave up.  Then I went through a similar experience with the Denman brush.  My hair just wasn't strong enough to endure that type of manipulation.

To compensate for breakage from detangling,  I went to the other extreme and tried to go super low manipulation only to suffer from horrendous knots and tangles.  I'm sure that my struggles with detangling has impacted my retention.  Now I'm ready to change all of that. This post is for those of us who can't just reach for a detangling contraption to solve all of our problems.  We want to detangle safely without having to sacrifice retention.

Step 1: Strengthen the Hair
I can blame tangle teasers and other tools all I want, but the truth is, those tools are bringing to light the weak areas of my hair.  Ideally, I'd like to have hair strong enough to withstand that kind of manipulation.  Weak fragile hair is going to break no matter how gentle I am.  Instead of cursing (loudly) at my Tangle Teaser, I'll express gratitude to it for helping me to see where I have room to improve.  Maybe I need to up the protein.  Or perhaps it's because I've taken too many shortcuts on wash day.  In either case, I know something has to change otherwise I'll go back to avoiding detangling sessions which only makes things worse.  Whenever I experience breakage from normal detangling activity, I always asses the length of the broken hair and inspect hair for split ends.  I also notice if most of the breakage is happening in small concentrated areas of it's a more global problem. All of that information is crucial for me as I implement ideas to bring health back to my hair.

Step 2:  The tools of the trade
No joke, I've probably purchased over 50 combs in my life.  All in search of the perfect one that can handle my hair without breaking it.  My favorites are the ones with double rows of teeth like this one I purchased at Walmart and the one from Ouidad.  Both are great but the only comb I reach for when detangling on wash day is the Mason Pearson Rake comb.  It's not the widest tooth comb in the world but it's ultra gentle.  This thing has fully cured my comb addiction.  Not only is it completely seamless, but it's super smooth making it easy to glide through the hair.  Maybe you're not ready to invest over $30.00 on a fancy comb.  But at least have one in your stash that loves your hair as much as you do. Ultimately, finger detangling should be your most used method but for those times when you need to use a comb or brush, make sure it's as close to finger detangling as possible.

 I'll never stop talking about how well It's a 10 miracle leave in works to melt away tangles.  If tangles are getting the best of you, please give this product a try.


Step 3:  Know When.
If I go too long without detangling, I'm asking for trouble. If I over manipulate my hair for the sake of detangling, I suffer the consequences.  If I detangle my hair without preparing for a successful session, I might regret it later.  What I'm trying to say is that there's a time and place for a proper detangling session to take place.  If not planned properly, the repercussions can last long after the session has ended.  It's critical to prepare the hair for all the manipulation that about to take place.  For example, my hair does much better when I pre-tangle using coconut oil.  The oil provides ample lubrication, helping the shed hairs to glide through.  If I let the oil to absorb first, I allow the protein to absorb into the strand providing additional strengthening.  Which reminds me, let's add the Misto Sprayer to the list of tools that can elevate the way you detangle.  Once upon a time, I bought (and threw away) a "jojoba infused comb."  I liked the idea of having a lubricated comb that glides easily through the hair. Unfortunately, the infused comb turned out to be useless but I notice that my Mason Peason is so smooth that it retains any oil that it comes in contact with.  When I have a little oil on the strands, my comb benefits as well.

That's what I got.  I think it's really important to focus on #1.  Because it's a lot more fun to detangle when the hair is strong and healthy.  There's no anxiety about about all the broken hairs on the floor. And you can leave the session feeling like you've actually accomplished something--not made it worse.

Why my first Hair Botox experience was a complete fail.

A couple of weeks ago, I excitedly shared with you the Hair Botox hair treatment.  What made it so amazing was the idea that one could infuse their hair with amazing ingredients without any concern for harmful chemicals.

My options were to visit a salon for the treatment or purchase the system online and attempt to do it at home.  The prices for the product online was not cheap but I figured that it would even out considering how many applications were in one package.  After a little reflection, I decided on Kashmir's Hair Botox. When the package arrived, on wash day, I was absolutely stoked!

After getting familiar with the instructions, I prepared for my first Hair Botox experience.  To start off, you're required to scrub the hair clean, using clarifying shampoo, to create the ideal environment for the product to penetrate.  Once that's complete, you dry the hair as much as possible before beginning the process. Once my hair dried, I mixed two products in the package together (per instruction), divided the hair into 4 sections, and proceeded to apply.

When I first opened the package, I took a whiff of the "smoothing treatment" that came was part of the system.  Everything smelled nice, so no alarms went off.  The treatment had a light consistency and was fairly easy to apply.  Per the instructions, I began applying the product from root to tip, making sure that everything was evenly applied.

Then something interesting happened.  I noticed my eyes start to get irritated and water.  At first I brushed it off because it didn't seem like a big deal.  Onward, I continued applying product.  The more I applied, the more irritation I experienced.  At this point I'm wondering if I'm really having a reaction to the product or if I'm imagining it.  I NEVER react to anything.  I don't consider myself sensitive and I have no allergies. But there was no denying how much my eyes were burning at this point.

Immediately I grabbed the bottle and scanned at the ingredients.  In my haste and excitement, I neglected to look review the ingredient list beforehand.  There it was, in the second line of the ingredient list--formaldehyde.  I was shocked!  That was the absolute last ingredient I expected to see on the list.  At this point I had a decision to make.  The fumes were rising in the air and I had to act fast.  I tried my best to keep applying, but eventually, the irritation became unbearable.  I jumped in the shower and gladly washed it out. The directions state that I should blow dry and flat iron after rinsing but I was afraid of causing more inhalable toxic fumes with the addition of heat.

One the ordeal was over, I contacted the company and exchanged a few messages.  It turns out they offer a formaldehyde free version of hair botox called Hair Biotex.  I, unfortunately, was fooled by the marketing tactics of using the words "Hair Botox" on a keratin treatment product.  Although I was extremely bummed, I still longed for the true hair botox experience.  That's the reason I decided to try again with a truly formaldehyde free formula.

The replacement product has arrived and the first thing I did was check the ingredients to conform that it was true Hair Botox treatment.  Once I get a chance to try Majesty Hair Botox, I'll do another update.

The Fulani Method | Using a silk scarf to infuse moisture into your hair

As I type these words, I'm sporting a dampened silk scarf, why? Because I'm trying the Fulani Silk Wrap Method.  You may have heard of moisturizing and sealing your hair.  But have you considered moisturizing and sealing your scarf?

The Fulani Method is a tradition of the Fulani women who hail from Nigeria and other parts of West Africa.  The method is quite simple.  You simply moisturize and seal your scarf before tying around your hair.  You heard me right, you moisturize and seal your scarf.  The idea is that your scarf will infuse your strands with moisture as you sleep.  Or, if you're like me and wear your scarf around the house, you'll experience a moisture boost all day.  I see great applications for this method on when you're out in the sun all day or for instant replenishment whenever your hair is feeling extra dry.

You'll see a video demonstration below.  JoStylin immerses the scalp in water and dips in in oil. This morning I tried a modified version in which I misted the scarf with a spray bottle. This time I didn't include the oil component because I wanted to see how my hair responded to the damp scarf alone.  When I do use oil, I'll apply using the Misto Sprayer.  After a few minutes of sporting a lightly damp scarf, I removed it to assess the results.

Instantly, my hair felt more moisturized.  The little bit of dampness from the scarf allowed my hair to lay down quite nicely. It was like moisturizing the hair with half the work.  I love that I can modify the amount of moisture depending on what hair style I'm wearing.  If I need more moisture, I can lightly wet the scarf under running water. If I want to moisturize the hair without over saturation, I mist the scarf.  This method doesn't take the place of your regular moisturizing and sealing regimen, but it's a nice addition. Especially for those lazy nights when you just want to tie a (damp) scarf around your head and fall asleep.  Thumbs up for the Fulani Method.

Damaged Hair? Maybe you should try a Hair Botox Treatment.

As the weather gets hotter, the only I can properly wear my hair straight is to have it done professionally.  Whenever Marie straightens my hair, the results can last for weeks.  But I'd love to try an option that could last much longer.  Oh, and if the procedure could actually improve the condition of my hair, I'd be elated.

In the past,  the options available were Keratin straightening or Japanese straightening. Both are viable choices but there may be a new hair straightening system in town.  Well it's not actually new but I'm just hearing about it for the first time.  I'm talking about Hair Botox.  When I first heard the term, I was like "are they sticking needles in our hair now?"   But actually, Hair Botox is a procedure not unlike a Keratin Treatment but with a few minor differences.  The biggest difference Hair Botox proponents highlight is that it contains no formaldehyde or any of it's potentially dangerous derivatives.  One site stated that even though a Keratin treatment product claims to be formaldehyde free, it could contain ingredients like aldehyde or vanillin which could turn into an inhalable version of formaldehyde after coming in contact with heat from your blow dryer.  And lastly, the Hair Botox treatment leaves the hair softer and shinier than a typical Keratin Treatment.

Hair Botox, on the other hand, only boasts of amazing ingredients that rid the hair of damage you've accumulated over the years, brining it back to it's youthful self.  I mean, who wouldn't want to have your hair infused with caviar oil, vitamins B & E, a collagen complex and natural acids?  Another feature of this process is that it doesn't completely remove all the curls from the hair like Keratin Treatments and it's not permanent like Japanese straightening.

I've talked about healthy hair salon treatments in the past. But this is the first one that I seriously want to try for myself.  If I could get similar results as a fresh touch up without having to break the bonds of the hair.  And, if the Hair Botox process actually repairs the weak areas of my hair, it would save time and money on the back end.  Theoretically, I wouldn't have to invest as much on expensive hair repair products if my hair responded well to the treatment.  I also like the fact that it could leave a little texture in the hair which might mean that I can still rock braid and wave outs whenever the mood struck. They say the treatment lasts 2-4 months but I suspect those of us with tightly curled new growth may need more frequent touch ups.  But, if the claims of Hair Botox being completely healthy for the hair are true, redoing the treatment every 6 six weeks or so isn't out of the question since it doesn't damage the hair.

Then I got to thinking, "is there a version of this product that one can do in the comfort of their own home?" The answer is yes.  L'Oreal has a line called Fiberceutic Hair Filling treatment. I've been eyeing these products for ages although I had to knowledge of the Hair Botox process.  But now that my eyes have been opened, I'm looking at these products with even more lust.  Thank God L'Oreal makes affordable, at home, versions of the treatment. really want my first experience to be a professional level product.  It does appear that Amazon does carry some professional level hair botox products (judging by the prices).  

I'm sold. I definitely want to try this to help tame summer frizz.   Even if it doesn't really straighten that well, I'm still very excited about it's hair restorative potential.  Who knows, maybe this could help me reduce (or eliminate) the number of times I relax per year.    If anyone has experienced this treatment, let us know what you thought of it.

PRP | The anti-aging vampire facial that can also grow your hair

I throughly enjoy learning about the unique and unusual treatments out there.  Ever since I've learned to conduct a basic facial at home, I'm no longer intrigued by your run of the mill spa facial.  I'm on the lookout for treatments that have an immediate and powerful impact to the skin.  The last treatment I indulged in was the HydraFacial.  It's a simple series of steps with the ability to infuse moisture deep within the skin.

Now, more than ever, I'm looking for treatments with the power to go deeper that the skin's surface. Right now I've got my eyes set of the Platelet Rich Plasma (PRP) facial.  The first time talk of this treatment came into the main stream was when Kim Kardashian let Oprah (and the whole world) in on her beauty secret.  Images of her bloodied and bruised face flooded the internet and the procedure world become known as the vampire facial.

"So worth it. And now my face is beyond smooth and healthy." @morganhardman sharing her results from the Vampire Facial

So here's how it works.  You sit comfortably in a chair while the specialist draws blood from your arm.  That blood is then placed in a centrifuge that spins it around, the separating platelets.  These platelets contain "growth factors" that rejuvenate the cells in our bodies.  The platelets and growth factors are in concentrated form (to 4X the normal levels) and ready to be re-injected directly into problem areas for maximum results.  This process activates new stem cells and stimulates collagen and elastic.

A video posted by Morgan Hardman (@morganhardman) on Apr 3, 2015 at 11:51am PDT

\timulation results in a volumized face, lifted cheeks and filled in under eye hollows.  Because collagen production takes time, the full results of the facial could take several weeks to actualize.  This process has been applied to treat traumatic injuries. Many professional athletes use this to regenerate injured areas of the body.  Not only is PRP therapy creating youthful skin and bodily healing, it's also used widely to help stimulate the regrowth of hair.

Those growth factors in the platelets, when injected into the scalp, feed the hair follicles which allow for the growth of healthy hair. This procedure is widely used in conjunction with hair transplantation to increase the success rate.  The treatment thickens the hair and reactivates stagnant follicles.  I watched a couple of videos on Youtube but got a bit freaked out by the needle injections to the scalp.  I think I'll stick to scalp massages and using my rolling bed of needles.

source

I'd love to use this treatment in areas where I'm plagued with deep acne scars.  I'm positive that I'll make more progress on these stubborn scars by focusing on deeper layers of the skin instead of working only on the epidermis.  As a matter of fact, a skin specialist once recommended a treatment for me that involved breaking up scar tissue, by using a needle, and attacking the scar from the bottom up.

 The PRP facial pretty pricey at between $500-$1,000 (but closer to the $1,000 price point), especially since multiple sessions are recommended.  But the cost might be worth it, especially if you continue to see improved results long after the procedure has been performed. If the price tag makes you a little squeamish, you may opt to employ the derma roller which helps rejuvenate the skin by creating micro trauma to the skin, causing new collagen to form as the skin heals.  You don't get the benefit of the nutrient rich growth factors but, hey, it's a start.

Leave-in Love| My favorite leave-in conditioners of all time.

 I realize that I've placed so much attention on finding the best deep conditioner that I've pretty much neglected a crucial wash day step.  Sure, the right deep conditioner can right a myriad of wrongs.  You can strengthen and moisturize your stressed tresses in one powerful step.  But, at the end of the day, the conditioner gets washed out and goes down the drain.  Then, we have the opportunity to "recondition" the hair in a lasting way.  But only if we have the absolute best leave in  we can get our hands on.

I've tried my share of leave-ins over the years.  But nothing can compare to this current line up.  I'm looking for products that can bring heavy moisture, detangle like no one's business, and protect the hair during the heavy manipulation that occurs post wash.  Here are my faves.

It's a 10 Leave In
Due to my own neglect, I'm often plagued with these massive, destructive knots which require lots of manpower to rectify.  When this happens, the man for the job is It's a 10!  Whenever I get an email from some poor soul who's contemplating chopping off her hair because of the sheer amount of knots she has to contend with, I instruct her to go out and by this leave-in.  It's like the go-to leave in whenever emergencies arise.  It's a 10 boast of giving the hair 10 benefits but, to me, the detangling power is unmatched.

Biolage Keratin Dose.
Well, almost unmatched.  Biolage stepped up it's game in a major way when it launched the Keratindose leave in.  This stuff had me signing it's praises.   Detangling and conditioning all in one magnificent package.  The actual product has the consistency of a creamy, hydrating conditioner but is applied using a spray bottle just like any other run of the mill leave-in.  I also give it extra points for being a powerful product on wet or dry hair.  I can literally use it as a moisturizer in the L.C.O process.  Oh, I should also mention that I'm picking up a box of the Biolage Keratindose concentrate. It comes in little tubes that is applied to the hair like an intensive treatment. It's formulated with silk amino acids and a "professional level of keratin."  Lookout for a review in the future.

Biolage Daily Leave-In Tonic
Although Keratindose is absolute perfection, I still love and will always reach for the daily leave in tonic when I rollerset.  In my humble opinion, Biolage Daily Leave in is the most moisturizing, watery leave in, I can get my hands on.  Just like the Keratindose, the actual product looks like a conditioner but in a lighter consistency.  There's nothing bad I can say about this leave-in.  It's absolutely the best light, conditioning leave-in that I've ever tried.

Grund Tiger Protein Reconstructor Leave-In Spray
I had a leave-in that softened the hair, and a couple that detangled, but I had nothing to reinforce my hair with additional strength.  I searched and searched until I somehow stumbled on Grund Tiger Protein Reconstructor.  Although I'd never heard of the brand before, I relied on the glowing reviews and the high price point as a sign that this could be a solid product.  And boy was I right.  What I love about this spray is that it does strengthen and reinforce the hair but without out none of the unwanted stiffness one might expect from spraying a protein laden product on the hair.  To me, Grund's protien spray is worth every single cent.   I don't use it all over but instead focus on weaker areas and on the ends.  It's darn good stuff.   They also have a protein moisture mist which also received great reviews from the people who've tried it.  I don't need another moisture leave-in but I'm so tempted to try it.  If it's as good as their protein spray with a boost of moisture, I'm sure I won't be disappointed.

Nexxus' Pro Mend Split End Binding Leave-In
Honorable mention goes to Nexxus' Pro Mend Split End Binding Leave-In Creme.  It's the heaviest of all the leave-ins I own.  I like a thicker product for when I'm deep into my stretch and need something a little heartier to manage my mane.  All though it's meant for split end repair, I use it all over.  I mean, the active ingredient alone should make you want to try it.  Seeing video of split ends sealing back up still brings chills down my spine.  Make sure to apply a watery leave-in underneath to add moisture then layer on the leave-in cream to seal it in.  This stuff will have your ends on point!  If frizzy, unruly ends are your issue, give this baby a try.  I also like how it provides a bit more sleekness to my hair, almost like it's sealing my cuticle layer while taking care of my damaged ends.

One realization I've made while writing this post is how I've neglected the proper use of leave-ins the last several months.  My plan is to organize them all together so I have the entire crew with me on wash day making sure I use the right one for the job depending on my hair's needs.  I've experimented with a post wash L.C.O using Aveda moisturizer on dripping wet hair (just out of the shower) and layering with oil.  This time, I'll utilize these leave-in moisturizers and layer with oil.  I suspect I'll get an even better result since these products are made for moisturizing already damp hair.

These are my absolute faves. If you have a leave in that works magic on your hair, leave a comment below.

RAVE! Keracare's Hydrating Detangling Shampoo

Shampoo is one of those things that I never paid too much attention to.  For me, it was all about the conditioners.  Then I stumbled on WEN cleansing conditioners and, for the first time, my "shampoo" cost more than the conditioners I used.  Recently, I ran out of WEN which occurred at around the same time that I found out about hair loss concerns that might be related to product build up.

So I thought, "what the heck, why not try a really good quality shampoo?" Since I picked up a 5lb tub of Humecto, I figured I'd pick up their sulfate free shampoo. The reviews were solid so I felt good about picking up the liter size bottle.  On wash day I prepooed with coconut oil overnight then jumped in the shower for my first experience with this shampoo.

The texture is slightly watery, creamy and has that pearlized appearance.  The scent made me happy.  Some of the features of this product is it's pH of 6.0.  Every once in a while I would break out a neutralizing shampoo on wash day but it's nice to know that the good folks at Keracare paid attention to details like pH.  The shampoo also has wheat protein down on it's short ingredient list.  I like the idea of having a little strengthening power in my shampoo to protect the hair from the manipulation of washing.

At first, I was on the fence about the watery texture since I was so used to the thickness of WEN.  But, during application, I quickly fell in love with the texture.  It's fluid nature made it so easy to apply directly to the scalp (even though I had ample amounts of new growth).  Once applied, the shampoo began to lather as I rubbed the solution into my scalp  The lather was powerful enough to cleanse the scalp but not strong enough to strip the hair.  

As a matter of fact, I went a little crazy with the cleansing as I imagined myself removing excess buildup on the scalp.  I found that the "slippery" nature of the shampoo acted almost like a lubricant as I gave myself a scalp massage in the shower.  Felt good.  Sure, it did a great job of cleansing.  But what about the claims that it detangles and hydrates?

Regarding it's claim of hydrating the hair, I would have to agree.  Even though I went a little overboard with all the cleansing, massaging, and scrubbing, my hair never felt stripped.  In fact, each time I rinsed, my hair still felt soft and hydrate.  So yes, this is a true hydrating shampoo.  And a good one.  Is this a great detangling shampoo?  Hmmm, let me think.  First off, I don't detangle in the shower like some people are able to do.  But, if I did, the Keracare shampoo would be a great option. The level of slip this shampoo provides rivals that of a decent conditioner.  So yes, I would think it can do a great job of detangling.

At the end of the experience, my scalp and hair was thoroughly cleansed, hydrated, and I only lost a couple of shed hairs in the process.  I was beyond happy.  It felt good to step out of the shower with clean, unstripped hair.  Next time, I may experiment with adding a couple of drops of essential oil for scalp stimulation. Or perhaps a few grains of sugar for scalp exfoliation.  We'll see how that goes.  What I like best about this sulfate free shampoo is that I think it will work perfectly into my new, frequent washing lifestyle.  Currently, I don't wash as frequently as I'd like but, if necessary, I'll dilute the shampoo with a little water to prevent possible over stripping.  This is a great shampoo for those of you who work out and have to wash regularly.

Basically, I love this shampoo intensely.  It's really effective and more versatile than my old cleansing conditioner.  If your shampoo doesn't "wow" you, take a moment to check out Keracare's Sulfate Free shampoo.  It's good stuff.

Currently Craving

It's been a while since I compiled a roundup of my current craves.  I really enjoy these posts because they act as sort of a vision board for me to declare the things I'd like to experience in my life.

So here we go:

It seems a bit more challenging to keep up with everything I'd like to accomplish in a day.  Ideally, I should be using one agenda to capture notes, to-dos, and projects instead of using a bunch of different time management tools co-mingled into one.

And so, my hunt for the perfect agenda has begun.  Although I still have a Covey planner from a few years ago, I would love to have something a bit more stylish.  Which is why I'm craving a Louis Vuitton agenda.  Preferably in the damier ebene print.  I adore the design so much that I think it'll inspire me to use it very consistently.  And, from past experience, I can make a ton of progress on my goals when I plan my days and weeks using a structured system.

Seasons are changing and I'm craving a new fragrance.  I've heard great things about Byredo fragrances which have a pretty decent sized cult following.  Unfortunately for me, there aren't any stores that carry Byredo anywhere near me so I'm a bit bummed that I can't even sample their scents.
Hopefully, I can find a shop that carriers them when I visit California later this month.

I treated myself to a spa facial at an Aveda salon.  At the end of the session, the young lady attempted to sell me their brightening lotion which cost around $50.00.  For that price, I'd rather try Clinique's Even Better Moisturizer.  For around the same price, you get to enjoy (1) hydration, (2) dark spot correction (3) sunscreen.  I need a moisturizer in my routine and I'm no longer satisfied with the idea of applying a moisturizer that doesn't have additional benefits.  I guess the whole BB Cream movement spoiled me.  Now I want all of my products to have multi level benefits.  If any of you have any recommendations for an amazing brightening moisturizer, please share, I'm all ears.

My next crave is something that I just recently discovered.  As you already know, I have an affinity for facial tools.  Somehow I stumbled upon a facial tool kit which can also have healthy hair benefits.  I'm referring to a high frequency facial machine kit.  Basically, it's a set of interchangable facial vibrational wands, each with a different purpose.  A few weeks ago, I bought a small handheld facial wand, (which I love).  Then, I learned of this kit with includes a wide tooth comb attachment.

Honestly, I do not need another scalp massager..........but I need this one.  I can only imagine how stimulating a vibrating massaging comb experience is like.  And, by the looks of it, the comb seems very hair friendly.  Obviously, if I owned this kit, I wouldn't be combing through my hair with it. But I would apply the comb near the roots to stimulate blood flow.  I'm specifically thinking about my edges and nape which are easily accessible.  One girl tied her hair in a bunch of sections

Here's a quick video of it in action.



 I sometimes use my small facial wand  on my scalp while my hair is tied under a scarf.  I really enjoy the experience with the small wand and would love to use this comb to cover more ground in less time.

I'll do a review if I do decide to get it.

Why Co-Washing might make you go bald.

Years ago, cleansing conditioners came into my world and things were never the same. The idea that I can apply a conditioner-like "shampoo" to cleanse my hair seemed too good to be true.  Cleansing conditioners were an amazing addition to my regimen.  No more stripped, dry hair.  Hair One was the first cleansing conditioner that I fell in love with.  Then everything rose to a new level once I bit the bullet and invested in WEN.

WEN was more that I could ask for.  Honey Fig's moisturizing qualities rivaled that of some of my favorite conditioners.  Everything seemed perfect.  That is until, I received the results of a hair analysis that revealed the excessive product build up on the strands.  The recommendation was that I cleanse subject my hair to deeper cleaning via shampoo.  I didn't resist the advice because deep down, I knew that clarifying only benefited the hair.  Looking back, I'm really grateful for the reminder because it may have prevented the unfortunate side effect of excessive product build up.

It seems that a percentage of WEN users have experienced our worst nightmare.  Hair loss.  There's even a class action suit against WEN from all of the unhappy customers who've lost their hair.   Although the root cause of the hair loss isn't clearly determined, we can learn from their experience and try to avoid the negative effects of a no-poo regimen.

What if some of the hair loss could be attributed to excess build up on the hair and scalp?  I think back to a post I did years ago where I linked to images of the harmful effects of excessive scalp build up.  Basically, when the scalp gets overloaded with gunk, it puts too much stress on the follicles causing shedding and breakage.

Looking back, I've had a lot of issues with excessive shedding and tangles.  I have crazy scalp issues any way (seborrheic dermatitis).  Allowing dirt, oil and excess product to build up on the scalp only makes things worse.   The scalp likes to be clean. A clean scalp is a healthy scalp.   If we allow the sebum to build up, we promote the possibility of yeast growth, infection and hair fall.

If you're someone who washes once a week, like I did, only used cleansing conditioner, week after week, the possibility of product build up is pretty certain.  If the build up continued, hair loss would be highly probable.  Nowadays, I clarify my scalp with Neutrogena Anti Residue.  I've run out of WEN and have replaced it with Keracare's Sulfate Free Detangling Shampoo for now.  I'm not giving up WEN for good, but I'll be more conscious of how I use cleansing conditioners from this day forward.

Since the weather is warming up, it's extremely important to keep the scalp clean.  We're sweating more than ever. Skin cell turnover is increasing and sebum production rises in the summer months.  So deeper cleansing is a must.  Too keep moisture levels in check, I vow to commit to steam sessions each wash day.  I made the mistake of not steam conditioning last wash and the difference in my hair was really obvious.  It's been a couple weeks since I've reimplemented shampoo to my routine and already noticed a reduction in shed hairs.

Everyone, please head my words and focus on a clean, happy scalp.  Although ACV is a good addition to your wash routine, it won't rid the scalp of build up like shampoo can.