Review | The Olaplex Hair Strengthening System.

A little while back, I talked about the new, amazing product by the  name of Olaplex.  This product line is basically changing the game when it comes to protecting hair from the dangers chemical processing.  Just to recap, the Olaplex system claims to have the ability to rebuild disulfide bonds in the hair.  Disulfide bonds give our hair its elasticity and strength. The Olaplex technology vows  to permanently rebuild these broken bonds.  The innovation that create Olaplex is so unique that they've secured 8 patents.  When hair product holds multiple patents, that let's me know that other formulations  on the market aren't able to compare.

The Complete System has three individual products. Actually, #1 & #2 are fundamental steps.  The third (#3) is an optional product that can be used at home to maintain great results.

For the sake of this review, I will share my experience using the system as a stand alone. Meaning, not in combination with a chemical process like bleaching or relaxing.

#1 [the BOND MULTIPLIER]
This is golden liquid that is applied to unconditioned hair.  Technically, you can apply to unwashed hair but if you think you've got some buildup, it's best to wash first, towel dry then apply.  The instructions ask you to dilute in a few ounces of water.  If the hair is extremely damaged, you can apply without diluting.  My experience is that mixing it with 3 ounces of water was a bit excessive. I had at least an ounce left over and I didn't know if I could use the remainder during the next wash so I threw it away.

The second time, I used much less water and found that I was able to fully saturate without creating much waste.  Oh, I should mention that I applied using one of my super duper misters. Which made it so much easier to apply.  It made the process highly efficient.  Using an applicator like this one created way too much run off and dripping.

#2 [the BOND PERFECTOR]
Once the hair is fully saturated, I applied the Bond Perfector directly over the Bond Multiplier without washing.  The Bond Perfector is cream with a similar consistency to a conditioner.  Olaplex makes it clear that #2 is NOT a conditioner.  It's used to "link the remaining dilsulfied bonds before and after service, restoring strength, structure and integrity to the hair."

 The directions say to leave in for at least 10 minutes, but I attended a conference call yesterday with representatives from Olaplex who advised that the longer it's left in, the better.

#3 [the HAIR PERFECTOR]
The optional take home treatment also has the look and feel of a conditioner.  Olaplex states that #3 contains the same ingredients as #1 & #2.  So just using #3 is highly beneficial to the hair.  Again, this is not a conditioning treatment even though it looks and feels like it.  I've been using #3 as a Pre-pre-poo.  Meaning, I apply to dry hair, then layer conditioner over it.  On one occasion, I was feeling especially lazy after application and feel asleep with the #3 and conditioner in my hair (under a plastic cap).  Thank God there were no horrible consequences and my hair felt great.  The folks on the call said that if you're lounging around the house, it's ok to leave it in for extended periods.  One of the stylists on the call emphasized how important it is that the product is combed thoroughly combed through the hair so it doesn't sit on top of the hair.

They made it clear that OLAPLEX IS NOT A CONDITIONER. It works on the internal structure of the hair, while most conditioners work to repair the external hair shaft.  Because of this, it's important to put in as much effort as your normally would with your deep conditioning step.  The first couple of times I used it, I didn't focus on deep conditioning so I could see how it works on it's own.

Because Olaplex is not a protein, I didn't experience heavy stiffness or any issues even through I used the product back to back for several weeks.  Olaplex works really well when paired with a hydrating conditioner.  I even mixed Pure Protein in my deep conditioner, after applying  Olaplex with absolutely no problem.  The effectiveness of the treatment is correlated to the level of damage in the hair. So, if the hair is relatively healthy, you may no see a drastic transformation.

Regarding using Olaxplex with a chemical service.  I read online that a good practice would be to do an Olaplex treatment prior to a relaxer (maybe a few days before) to build the bonds.  This will ensure there's strength in the hair to endure the treatment.  Then, once the relaxer is rinsed out, you can use #1 & #2 to build back some of the broken bonds.  The result is stronger, more resilient hair.  I was tagged by an instabuddy who shared how happy she was with her Olaplex treatment post relaxer.

My experience was somewhat mixed.  Part of it was my fault. I tried (and failed) again to air dry so I couldn't tell if my hair felt healthier.  But what I did notice was that it much stronger.  My hair was much better equipped to handle manipulation without excessive breakage.  Once I went back to roller setting, I noticed the difference.  My hair just looked and felt healthier.  I anticipated a cumulative effect as I used the product week after week and I got it.  I barely lost any hair last wash.  One thing I haven't done yet was to apply #1 &#2, then sit under steamer for a deeper effect. Though I plan to try it within the next day or two.  I suspect this will create even more elasticity in the long run.

Overall, I'm very pleased with the brand and it's results.  If you have severely damaged hair, this product was practically made for you.  If you're hair is healthy and strong, this is a "nice to have."  If you're curious about the process, you can pick up #3 and try it at home.  If you go to a stylist for touch ups, please school him/her on Olaplex so they have it available for your at your next touch up.

Caviar Cravings | Is Caviar the ingredient your hair has been waiting for?

We've discussed the multitude of benefits of nutritious super foods of the sea.  Among my favorites are green micro organisms such as spirulina + chlorella.  Next on the list is seaweed which I enjoy snacking on at random times of the day. Most recently, I ushered caviar (fish roe) into my diet as a concentrated source of omega 3, vitamin D, amino acids and other vitamins & minerals.  And just like fermented cod liver oil, the vitamin and fatty acid source found in fish eggs are a whole food source and better utilized by the body.

Now it seems that a couple professional hair care brands have harnessed the nutritional benefits of caviar extract as part of their hair care lines.  I read online that Katherine Zeta Jones is a fan of receiving caviar hair care treatments from her favorite stylist.  There they apply liquified caviar to her strands to give them a lustrous and healthy glow.  One factor in the results could be attributed to the high fatty acid content of the fish eggs.  I can attest to the wonderful benefits on incorporating omega rich oils into my regimen.  My hair absolutely adored my mega omega hair oil blend.  Although I incorporated a vegetarian source of omega 3, I think adding caviar extract would have taken everything to the very next level.

Not sure if I'm ready to start liquifying fish eggs in my Blentec just yet.  Instead, I've got my eyes on a couple of products from Alterna's Caviar line.  According to the director of marketing at Alterna, caviar has a similar cellular format to human skin.  That, in turn, helps to increase the hair's elasticity and improve the health of the scalp.

I took a quick gander at the ingredient list of Alterna Caviar CC Cream10 IN 1 Complete Correction to see exactly how much "caviar" was actually in the product.  I hovered at the bottom of the list for several moments wondering if they used some other fancy name to disguise the actual ingredient.  Much to my surprise, I realized that I was looking in the wrong place.  Caviar extract was listed pretty high on the list, just after algae extract.  Perhaps the amount of extract in the bottle correlates with the relatively high reviews on Amazon.

I'm not gonna lie, I'm interested.  Oh, and I also find out that one of my favorite brands, Kerastase also offers a professional caviar hair treatment both in salon and at home.  It's touted as "the finest hair care treatment offered by Kerastase" so you know it's an investment.

I think I have some fish roe in the fridge so there's a 50% chance that I might mash them up and add 'em to my conditioner on wash day.  Who knows, I just might treat myself to a caviar  infused face mask. I can see it now.  Me, sitting under the hair dryer with a glass of wine as I pretend to be an international super star enjoying a $1000.00 caviar skin and hair treatment.   If I do, I'll let you know how it turns out.

 Last, but not least, I think the biggest benefits of fish roe come from taking it internally so I'll make sure to continue enjoying a little caviar as a snack on a regular basis.

Olaplex | Rebuild the damage caused by your chemical treatment

I've received emails from a few readers inquiring about a (somewhat)new product on the market by the name Olaplex. What's amazing about this product is that it's a one ingredient formula that works to reconnect the hair's disulfide bonds.  That's right, it works on the structure of the hair, basically repairing damage, bringing it to a healthy state once again.  

Olaplex

Apparently, the Olaplex protects the hair during/after chemical processes, preventing the damage one would normally experience when the bonds are broken.  The result?  Hair feels, smooth, silky and is pretty much free of damage + breakage.   Olaplex is a professional product gaining it's popularity in salons.  Blondes everywhere are raving about how silky and perfect their hair looks and feels thanks for Olaplex.

As you know, bleaching the hair and relaxing produces similar results (with regards to dryness, breakage, split ends) so Olaplex is very promising for those of us who want to mitigate the damage from chemical treatments.  The good news is that Olaplex can also be used post relaxer or as a stand alone treatment to address damaged hair.

The entire system consists of three steps.  Bottle No. 1 is the Bond Multiplier, which is typically mixed in the chemical product to lighten hair.  In the back of my mind, I'm wondering if the bond multiplier can be mixed in with a chemical relaxer.  Curiosity got the best of me so I did a little more digging and found this conversation on their Facebook page.

• 

  Anita Johnson How do you use it with relaxer, lightener and color combinations? Yes I push the envelope 

  Like · Reply · July 20, 2014 at 2:35am
• 

  Olaplex Ok if you are one to push the envelope then do it carefully and wisely. We love the envelope pushed but experiment first and know the product Olaplex well. You can mix 15% bond multiplier with 85% water in applicator bottle. After you neutralize rents and saturate hair with Olaplex mixture leave on 7.5 minutes if you have the time saturate hair again and will leave on another 7.5 minutes. Rinse, shampoo, condition you do not need to wait the 48 hours before you shampoo.

Interestingly enough, when I contacted Olaplex directly to inquire as to whether I can include the bond multiplier into my relaxer, the response I received was to try it out and let them know my experience.  (I just might take them up on that challenge).

  Bottle No. 2 is the Bond Perfector which is applied post treatment.  According to their website, as a stand alone treatment, you'd use Bottle No. 1 (Bond Multiplier), then add a generous amount of Bottle #2, leave in for 10 minutes (or more), then rinse, shampoo, condition.

The good folks at Olaplex also have Bottle No 3. (Hair Perfector) which helps maintain health of the hair post treatment.  Since our hair's bonds are constantly being compromised due to manipulation, heat styling, etc, this product helps to "maintain the strength, structure, integrity and softness of the hair until the next service at the salon."

It took me a while to get hip to this amazing product but I'm not putting it off any longer.  After doing a little searching, I was able to locate Olaplex for sale on Ebay.  I picked up a package containing all three treatments which I should be receiving within the next week or so.  Review coming soon.

Could Silicon Mix + Aphogee 2 Minute Reconstructor be the next killer combo?

About a month back, I finished up my bottle of Aphogee 2 Minute Reconstructor.  This product has been a long time staple.  I told myself that I'd be replacing the bottle one day soon but now I have an even better reason to get it sooner rather than later.

Way before the Silicon Mix and Kanechom craze began, one lone poster on the LHCF shared her experience after mixing Silicon Mix conditioner with Aphogee's strengthening treatment.  Here's what she had to say in a thread aptly titled:  "Silicon Mix + Aphogee 2 Minute Reconstructor = Bombness!!!!"

Ok so I'm at work and since I have nothing to do, I decided to wash my hair and blow dry it so I can flat iron in the am. I washed my hair with Paul Mitchell Tea Tree shampoo. When it came time to condition and deep condition, I decided to just put both the Silicon Mix and the Aphogee 2 Minute Reconstructor on my hair with a cap and let it sit while I do paper work. 50 min later I washed it out and my hair feels like silk!!!   I sprayed the Aphogee Keratin with Green Tea on my hair along with Chi Silk infusion and Redken Antisnap . I did blow dry and it feels so soft! My coworker was in shock, needless to say I'll be doing her hair tomorrow night while I'm at work lol. Ladies please don't sleep on this! And the crazy part, I didn't even use [direct]heat and the slip was amazing!!! Silk I tell u!!!

Lol happy hair growing ladies!"

@riaseurat | Silicon Mix Pearl Protein + Aphogee Green Tea

First off, could you imagine how convenient it would be to have the opportunity to do a full wash and deep condition while at work?  But back to the topic at hand.  We all fell in love with Kanechom and Silicon Mix duo.  Could this be a new version that can add a little bit of strength to the equation.  Aphogee 2 Minute Reconstructor strengthens the hair without overloading the hair with protein.   What would it be like to mix all three?  I have all these thoughts swirling in my head right now.

I'll definitely have to do a follow up post once I give this combination a go.  Who's excited to try this?

The one time when protein overload may be a good thing

For the past week or so, I got a little lazy with my moisturizing routine.  In an effort to save time, I skipped a few steps. Instead of applying liquid, then moisturizer then oil, I only did two steps.  First I misted my hair with Evian Facial Mist spray then finished up with coconut oil.  This routine was pretty much repeated daily since I traveled all week.

While all of this was happening, I wasn't thinking about the eventual outcome of using coconut oil every day.  As you might recall, coconut oil is said to have the power to provide the hair strand with protein.  Each day my hair was essentially absorbing protein. By the time the week was over, my hair was feeling stiff and didn't absorb moisture as well.

On Sunday I decided to touch up my roots (p.s. my last touch up was about 3 months ago. Normally I like to wait 4 months but I experienced quite a bit of growth from taking bamboo tea regularly during the late summer months) .  At the start of the relaxer process, I put a little coconut oil on my hair to help protect the hair from the relaxer run-off.  It wasn't until half way through the relaxer process that it dawned on me that the stiffness I was experiencing was probably a result of all that layering of coconut oil.  But here's the thing.  By the time I rinsed the relaxer out, I realized just how great my hair felt.  The stiffness went away but my hair still felt strong and resilient.

Then I thought, perhaps the additional protein within my strands added another layer of protection during the chemical process.  Typically, after a touch up, I go through this rebuilding phase where I pamper my hair with protein rich products to put strength back into my hair.  This time was different.  I should mention that I still did the responsible thing by adding a little pure protein + silk amino acids to my relaxer mix.  Everything worked together to create a wonderful symphony of strength.  Heck, I didn't need to break out my Tiger Reconstructor spray. 

I will definitely pay close attention to my protein levels prior to relaxing in the future.  One thing I'll do differently next time will be to provide as much protein lovin' to my roots as to the rest of my length.  After all, that's the hair closest to the line of fire. A day or so has passed and everything is just peachy keen.  Now that my hair feels pretty balanced, I'll go back to my regularly scheduled moisturizing routine.  At least now I have a strategy for when next wash day comes around.

Why I love Tiger Protein Reconstructor so darn much

In my Banish Breakage post, I mentioned a little known product by the name of Tiger Protein Reconstuctor.  The moment I saw the price tag, I knew I had to have it.  To me the high end price probably was related the quality of product.  Although I own dozens of hair products. The only thing missing was a super protein leave-in spray.  I had no other choice but to get it.

When my package arrived, I immediately wanted to try it.  But not before I turned the bottle to check out the details.

Product Claims:  Covalent/Permanent Bonding of Protein into hair  + Rebuilds All Hair Types + Strength + Volume + Shine + Color Lock

Directions:  For Maintenance and Repair Treatment apply & massage into clean, damp hair dry & style as usual.

For Maximum Treatment: Apply & Massage into clean, damp hair. Cover with plastic cap & heat for 5 minutes. Remove plastic cap and style as usual.

I just love the fact that a spray leave in can be used as an intensive treatment by applying heat.  The ingredient list itself contains various types of proteins including soluable keratin, hydrolized wheat protein, hydrolized keratin, wheat amino acids, betaine (we mentioned the amazing benefits this ingredient in a previous post) and much, much more.

My first experience was on dry hair.  I misted a little on "dirty" hair to see if I would experience stiff, brittle strands.  Instead of brittle strands, I experienced stronger hair but without the feeling of protein overload.  Mind you, I did layer on some moisture on top of where I misted just to make sure nothing crazy happened.  But overall, I was very pleased.

The second experience was on wash day.   I washed and conditioned as usual then, during the rollerset I sprayed the length of my hair with the leave in.  Again, I experienced none of the "heavy protein"  feeling that I fear so much.  I'm guessing the size of the proteins are small enough to penetrate the strand instead of staying mainly on top of the hair.  Hence, my hair still remained it's old self, only stronger.

I felt pretty good about using Tiger Reconstructor as a final step during the roller set but this week, I had an ever better idea.  Remember my post on using different conditioners during the pre-poo based on how strong or weak the section is?  Well, this strengthening spray is perfect for such a scenario. Currently, I have healthy sections and I have weak sections.  Weak sections are those that, when manipulated, suffer casualties (broken strands).  Strong areas I can detangle without a care in the world.

During my pre-poo, whenever I came across a weak area, I sprayed a little bit of the reconstructor into my hand and distributed throughout the section.  The reason I misted into my hand was so I can be intentional about where the product goes. I also use less product this way.  After applying the reconstructor, I layered some moisturizing Kanechom and moved on to the next section.  Once done, I steamed then jumped into the shower to rinse.  My breakage in the weak areas reduced dramatically!  I'm beyond pleased with the results.  I love Babyface Pure Protein for an all over strengthening treatment but this gives me a laser-like focus to target my weakest areas.  I also remembered how Yahya mentioned targeting her ends with protein because to aid with retention.  I tried that over the weekend and today, my ends feel stronger as a result.

This type of product was exactly what was missing from my regimen.  Someone, like me, who over manipulates their hair needs a product that can help neutralize my potentially damaging actions.   How on earth did I go so long without it?

The Importance of Penetration in a Healthy Hair Regimen

I came across this picture on Pinterest the other day and immediately was mesmerized by the strength and health of her hair.  Then I got to thinking about the importance of internal penetration and healthy hair. Especially for those of us who relax. If we want to make considerable progress in the overall health of our hair, I feel like we must do much more than simply moisturize and seal.  Or should I say, "we must always think about the internal strength or our hair as much as the external."

Until recently,  when I applied a daily moisturizer before sealing, it never crossed my mind if the internal structure was also getting some love.  Especially since breakage really comes from the inside out.  I'm now shifting my thinking to balance products that work on my hair's internal structure as well as the outside.

INTERNAL MOISTURE
When I reflect on my hair's internal structure, I think about replenishing it the same way I would on the outside. I'd provide it moisture, oil and strength.  Prior to learning about the L.O.C. method, I'd simply slap on some moisturizer, seal with Gleau and move on my merry way.  After learning about the power of adding a liquid to the routine, things changed.  People with chemically treated hair have high permeability levels when it comes to water due to a loss of 18-MEA.  Perhaps that allows for greater evaporation of moisture as well.  If this is the case, then perhaps we can find some benefit in hydrating the hair with water on a regular basis.  I can not rave enough about my secret weapon when it comes to daily moisture.  Evian Facial Mist is truly a God-send to my regimen. The water particles are small enough to absorb into my hair without over saturating it.  It makes a huge difference in my hair's moisture levels overall.

INTERNAL STRENGTH
It's also important to incorporate powerful proteins into my regimen that have the ability to go deep within to make a difference.  One product that comes to mind is Silk Amino Acids which boasts of it's ability to deeply penetrate the hair. I've also talked about functional keratin which has the power to better adhere to the hair because of how it closely resembles our naturally occurring keratin. Let's not forget about ceramides which are the naturally occurring glue that hold's our hair's cuticle layer together.   Which reminds me that I need to stock back up on Biolage Cera Repair which is an amazing leave-in.

Lastly, I find myself digging into my tub of coconut oil more frequently.  Many say that coconut oil can go deeper into our strands than other plant oils.  This makes it a great choice if you are rebuilding the hair from the inside out.  I think there is a place for penetrating and non-penetrating oils.  For instance, I may layer on some coconut oil and later mist my hair using my Misto sprayer containing jojoba oil. Jojoba oil doesn't penetrate the hair making it a great choice to seal the hair.

It's all about balance. Yes we need heavy creams and moisturizers to treat the hair strand AND we should also incorporate various products to get in on the inside.

Currently Craving | Matrix Pro-Keratin Renewal Leave In

Ever wanted a product so badly that you were willing to delay wash day until you got your hands on it?  That's exactly what's happening to me right now.  I'm litterally counting down the hours until the UPS man drops off my bottle of Maxtrix Biolage's Pro-Keratin Renewal Leave-In Spray.

Not sure how I happened upon this product, but the moment I saw it on Amazon (and noticed the favorable ratings) I immediately purchased.  No reading the ingredients list, no searching Youtube for reviews.  Matrix and I have a long history.  In fact, their Daily Leave- In Tonic has been a staple of mine for many, many years.  Knowing that there could possibly be a "better" version of their already incredible leave-in makes me gitty inside.  The reviews only served as validation for what I knew I had to do.

Statements like "In love!" "Amazing!" "Love this stuff!"  "Best product I ever used!" "Thankful this stuff exists" are commonplace if you check out the reviews.  What impressed me the most was how the lowest rating was four stars.  This weekend should have been wash day but I couldn't pull myself to go through with it not knowing what I could be missing.  So now I wait.  In less than 24 hours I will have my coveted leave-in and will finally get to allow my hair to experience the softness and conditioning qualities this product claims to bring.

My package can't come soon enough.

Stronger Hair | KHairPep can repair chemically damaged hair by up to 90%

I can not tell you how excited I was after reading a email from a reader who wanted my opinion on a product that claims  to have the power to repair chemically relaxed hair from the inside.  Immediately, I wanted to know more.  What is this product? How does it work? And how can I get my hands on it?

The product is called KHairPep and was first mentioned in an Allure Magazine article. What makes KHairPep work is the active ingredient K18peptipe (trademark).  According to their website, this peptide has the ability to penetrate the cortex of the hair, bonding and rebuilding keratin.  The strengthening benefits of the peptide remains in the hair, even after washing.   The results of their clinical trials show that damaged hair can experience an increase in strength and elasticity of up to 85%.  They tested the strength of virgin hair prior to relaxing and after.  The hair lost about half of it's strength after relaxing but was able to regain up to 90% of it's strength with the application of KHairPep serum.  And, with 4 additional treatments, they observed even more strengthening benefits to the hair.

source

I don't know about you but this type of news gives me life! This level of hair repair is exactly what I've been waiting for.  First we hear that split ends can be repaired, now we have a product that actually repairs the cortex of the hair.  Do you know how game changing this is?  Ever since I started this blog, my goal has been to help uncover ways to bring as much health back to chemically relaxed hair as possible.  It's been a few years but I finally feel like my mission is actually coming into reality.

Let's go back to the first email sent by a reader which began this conversation.  In it, she wondered about the alcohol listed second ingredient in both KHairPep's serum and hair mask.  Her concern was if the alcohol would be drying to the hair.  I conducted a quick search online to what I could find and yes, that ingredient could be cause for concern if dry hair is an issue.  Confused as to why a product that is meant to repair the hair would have this ingredient so high on list, I reached out to them to seek understanding.

Within days, one of the Co-Founders of the brand reached out to me with a plausible explanation.  Here's what they said:

"The alcohol is present in the KhairPep Transforme™ products for two reasons. The main reason is that it helps swell the hair cuticle which facilitates penetration of our proprietary peptide into the hair. The related reason is that it helps dissolve lipids that would otherwise slow the entry of the peptide into the hair.
Some customers may feel a drying effect. However, it is a necessary step in the process and the result is stronger, more elastic hair and healthier hair. Khairpep is a treatment and as a result we purposely did not build in many cosmetic properties. We wanted it to be the best at repairing hair that has been damaged by bleaching, coloring, straightening etc. Once consumers have used our treatment they can apply any styling or conditioning products that you they like - by this time, the peptide will be inside and repairing the damaged hair.
Some of our customers with dry hair prefer the masque which has additional conditioning (compared to the serum).
To summarize, there may be some drying effect, but it is a necessary part of the treatment and the result is worth it for those with very damaged hair."

 It makes sense. We invest a lot time protecting our cuticle layer and sealing it up to prevent further damage. So if they make a product that is meant to deeply penetrate, we have to open up the cuticle to allow it to do it's thing.  Totally understandable.  And like he said, we can easily reapply moisture to our hair following the treatment.  Since I'm continuing the habit learned from my last 7 day challenge, I know I can maintain decent moisture levels.

Then I went on to ask a few additional questions like the difference between this amazing peptide and functional keratin which we just learned about recently.  And whether this would make for a good reconstructor after a relaxer (prior to neutralizing).  Here's what he said:

"With regards to functional Keratin, it is extracted from wool.  It is a bigger protein that sticks to the surface of the hair fibre.  It can be removed by friction/abrasion under normal conditions...  Our peptide actually penetrates the hair. With regards to your second question, we have not tested Khairpep products after relaxer and prior to neutralizing.  However, our products need to be applied at neutral-acid conditions.... It therefore makes sense that it should not be applied before the neutralizing.  (I believe that relaxing is done at high alkaline levels?). In terms of when to use our product, we recommend using after hair damage (e,g, after bleaching, coloring, relaxing, etc).  Use it 2-4 times depending on hair damage, the next times that you wash your hair.  Maintenance is typically once every 1-2 weeks but depends on personal preference too.  The pertide leaves the hair slowly over time. Note that you use KP products after shampooing while the hair is still damp, but BEFORE the application of any conditioner or styling products because these will block entry of the peptide into the hair."

So there you have it.  The functional keratin is useful for surface level damage while this peptide can take care of things from beneath the surface.  I thought this would be a great product to use directly after a relaxer but it seems to be a better option as a just after the hair has been neutralized but prior to deep conditioning.  With all the info given, I was excited and ready to place my order but, before I did, they generously offered to provide me samples of both the conditioner and the serum and I humbly accepted.  I can't wait to test them out and share my thoughts with you.  Summer is around the corner and I have a clear vision of where I want my hair to be by then.  This product came right on time.

Stay tuned for my update.

Stronger, more elastic hair with the power of beet sugar

When I think of the qualities of healthy hair strands, I would list them as the following:

+ Smooth, in tact cuticle layer
+ Adequate moisture levels
+ Adequate strength
+ High levels of elasticity

The last quality is something which has always been of interest to me.  Back in the day, when I would find long strands of hair from my co-workers, I'd stretch those hairs as far as I could to see how much it would require to break it.  Needless to say, those strands could withstand so much stretching it was unbelievable.  I could only imagine the amount of retention one could achieve with hair that flexible.

The next obvious thought was how I could increase the elasticity in my own hair.  Answers like "improve your moisture/strength levels" seemed like the right  solution at the time but, deep down, I wondered if there was something I was still missing.  Then I stumbled upon an interesting study  on increasing the tensile strength (elasticity) of hair using beet sugar!

Yes! A beet sugar derivative also known as betaine (trimethyl glycine).  Bleached hair was taken from Asian & Caucasian subjects and extended to see how much the strand would stretch before breakage occurs.  Kinda like what I used to do but a bit more scientific.  By the way, the Asian hair was double bleached because it's traditionally stronger than other hair types.  They washed the hair samples with a shampoo containing SLS and air dried.  The control group air dried without a leave-in product. The test group air dried with a solution containing 5% betaine solution.

Both types of hair experienced "a higher elastic extension" when exposed to stress after the betaine solution was applied.   European hair experienced an extension of 15-25% of it's initial length compared to that control group of hair without the leave-in.  Asian hair experienced a higher yield in break extension by 25% of initial length.  Overall, hair treated with betaine solution demonstrated improved hair strength, was less prone to fracture under stress and was described as less brittle.  What makes betaine work so well is it's affinity to water.  Betaine is said to help the hair better retain moisture.  It's actually naturally found in our hair, but in very small amounts. Chemical processes impact the availability of betaine in the stands so adding back into the hair is one step we can take to bring it back to it's natural strength levels.

15-25% additional elasticity sounds really exciting.  I immediately wanted to get my hands on some of this stuff so I went scouring online for commercial products with this ingredient.  I found some products with coca-betaine which is derived from coconut oil.  Not sure if this behaves the same in the hair as the beet version so I kept looking for the original source.  I did find a line called Shielo which has a leave in conditioner with betaine as one of the active ingredients.  And.....I also came up on some pure trimethyl glycine powder sold on Amazon.  I'll be picking up the betaine powder and adding to my leave-in spray bottle along with my deep conditioner.  They say it's highly water soluable so it should mix well in liquids.  There are some health benefits to betaine as well which is why it's available as a supplement.  I'll be adding it to my smoothies as well.

{First Impressions} Thairapy 365 Conditioning Iron

Finally had the opportunity to take my new conditioning iron for a spin.  It looks like a flat iron, but behaves like a deep conditioning treatment.  At least, that's what it claims. There was no way that I'd pass up the opportunity to try such a novel idea, so I made my order on Amazon and waited patiently.  There were two options available to me.  The Jose Eber conditioning tool and the one made by Thairapy 365.  I chose the latter because of my experience with the Clarisonic and my Microdermabrasion machines. In both instances, I purchased the less expensive model, then upgraded and experienced the difference.  This time, I decided to get the "best that money can buy." 

The package itself only came with an iron and some safety instructions.  There was nothing in the box about how to use the conditioning iron.  So I went online and did some research.  The Thairapy website had some videos on the tool which I wasn't able to play.  Instead, I found some videos on how to use the Jose Eber iron.  I gather that it's meant to be used with a leave-in prior to styling.  But  I decided to try something a little different. 

I pre-pooed using Trader Joe's Nourish Spa. Then I jumped into the shower , rinsed, shampooed then stepped out to begin deep conditioning.  In a small bowl, I combined Kanechom Shea Butter and Silicon Mix Pearl Protein.  In went a half a capful of Pure Protein to complete the deep conditioning mix. After applying conditioner all over, I flipped the on switch and waited.  Then I was like "what am I waiting for, this thing doesn't have to heat up."  Just to confirm, I touched the plates which were glowing bright red.  As suspected, they were comfortable to touch. Not hot at all. 

So I took a section and started my first pass.  After the third section, I realized that I was using this thing like a flat iron. Meaning, I was passing it very quickly (as if to avoid heat damage) and I tried to avoid spending too much time on the ends.  I had to retrain myself to use this in a different way than I would my flat iron.  I took my time on each section and began to pay even more attention  on my ends.

When I close the iron, the lights change from bright red to a mix of red and blue. There's also a very slight 'frequency sound" as you use the iron.  Other than that, you feel like it's not doing anything.  It doesn't straighten like a flat iron although it does give a very slight straightening effect. Could be due to the pressure of the plates against the hair. 

After I completed "ironing" my hair with the deep conditioner in, I jumped back into the shower then prepared for the styling process.  I decided to pop open my last tube of Biolage Cera Repair so I can seal the ceramides into the cuticle.   Again, I used the tool in sections over my entire head.  This time, I started noticing a difference in my hair as it began to dry.  My hair seemed a little stiff.  Similar to when my hair starts behaving after a deep protein treatment.  Not sure how I felt about this. I told myself, "OK, at least I know my hair will be stronger after this, 'cause my hair absorbed the protein really well." 

I dampened my hair again in preparation for the roller set.  The amount of hair I lost during this process was so minuscule it was laughable.  A couple of months ago, I was concerned about my hair loss when I roller set.  I was going to write a post about it but thought it'd be better for me to test various solutions before sharing my thoughts.  So far, this experience has exceeded my expectations in that area.

While I was under the dryer, I thought to myself.  I think it's a good product but I'm not sure it should be called a "moisturizing tool" because my hair didn't feel extra moisturized.  Little did I know that I would be eating those words when I removed my rollers and over the next couple of days.  Indeed my hair does feel moisturized.  The stiff hair I had earlier was gone.  My hair does feel like it experienced an ultra deep conditioning treatment even though I used zero heat or steam. Based on the review on Amazon, and the information on the box, the results will continue improve over the next 30 days. 

Honestly, even if my hair doesn't continue to improve beyond this, I would still be happy.  But, since the best is yet to come, I will be a bit more intentional next time and use even smaller sections.   Overall my hair feels like my cuticles are smoother and the strands are softer.  To me, this is the epitome of deep conditioning.   I'm very happy.

Inphenom Mist: I think I found my new favorite leave-in

With all the commotion lately about my Kanechom conditioners, I forgotten about some Inphenom product purchases I also made around the same time.  Just before I stumbled upon Kanechom, I purchased a deep conditioning treatment and a leave-in mist from Inphenom.  Still haven't used the deep conditioner yet because I keep reaching for Kanechom each wash day.  But, finally, I remembered the mist after conveniently running out of my Biolage Daily Leave in Tonic.

Since I roller set on wash days, it's important for me to have a leave-in on hand at all times.  My go to leave in for years was the Biolage brand for its moisturizing qualities.  After my hair analysis consultation, I was encouraged to seek out a strengthening leave-in to help treat some of the mild lifting of my cuticle layer.  I didn't want to automatically default to a product with proteins since I'm doing regular protein treatments now.  The last thing I want is to overload my hair with protein.

Then I stumbled upon the Inphenom mist and was immediately sold.  Take a look at the product description and you'll know why:

"Inphenom Mist re-supplies the CMC to the hair while blow styling every day.  Nano-Micro CMC penetrates into the lipid layers and the CMC Amino mix (made of 11 kinds of Amino Acids) penetrates into the moisture layer to hydrate the hair."  

In case you are wondering what the CMC is, let me remind you.  CMC stands for the Cell Membrane Complex.  This is the layer where our ceramides reside. When we relax, color our hair, etc, we impact the integrity of the CMC and our cuticle layer.  This amazing mist claims to have the ability to positively improve the actual structure of our hair.  Even if the claims of "amino acid penetration to the CMC layer" isn't completely true, I'm still super impressed by the fact that they even talk like that!  To me, this speaks to a company who really has a desire to create truly healthy hair.....and I admire that (wipes tear from right eye).

The product description is what made me purchase but what makes me love the Inphenom mist is its packaging.  Not because it's all sleek & fancy looking. More importantly, this bottle has the ability to product the finest mist I've ever experienced.  I dunno why, but I have this thing for ultra fine mist.

Makes me feel like, with every spray, thousands of hair strands are being impacted.  Even when I've used up all the contents, I will save this bottle for future use.  I have lots of ideas. For one, I'm going use it to mist my hair with water whenever I perform the LOC method. My only qualm is that I wish the bottle came in a larger size but, now that I think about it, because of the coverage I get with each mist, this bottle will last me longer than I anticipate.  I can also alternate with Biolage on days when I do protein treatments and Inphemon on the other wash days.

So far, I've only experienced this once.  My roller set came out straighter than usual and my hair feels reinforced.  What I also love about this product is that it can be used to support the hair in the case of heat usage.  Since I had such a great experience with this mist, perhaps I can try the deep conditioner I purchased but never bothered opening.  I'm hoping that I'll be just as pleasantly surprised with the conditioner as I am with the mist.

Some thoughts on protein overload....

One of the most obvious changes to my regimen lately has been the addition of protein use at regular intervals.  I'm adore moisturizing conditioners so I primarily just stuck to what I'm most comfortable with.   But the feedback I received from my hair analysis changed all of that.  I was instructed to use a strengthening daily moisturizer plus encouraged to use a mild protein treatment bi-weekly.  Then I learned of Yahya's technique of fortifying her ends with more protein than the rest of her hair and I was immediately sold.

But then I got to thinking, "I wonder if all this newly added protein could lead to an eventual protein overload situation."  With the exception of when I once used Aphogee 2 step hard protein treatment & Keracare Sustanance, I've never experienced protein overload.  At least not that I remember.  Probably because I never really used proteins as regularly as I do now.  So I think now is a good time to educate myself so I can look out for the warning signs and act pre-emptively.

What is protein overload? Basically, it's when our hair strands contain an excess amount of protein content versus moisture.  The outcome of all this is dry, brittle hair that is prone to breakage.  Many people who experience protein overload describe their hair as feeling stiff like straw and dries easily when wet.  This experience usually occurs after doing one or more protein treatments.

The good news in all of this is that protein overload can be corrected by doing the following:

+ Deep conditioning & steaming with highly moisturizing conditioners.
+ Add a pinch of salt to your deep conditioner.
+ Do a clarifying treatment to help remove excess build up on the hair.
+ Baggy the hair after moisturizing to amp up the moisture levels.
+ A relaxer touch up can help counteract the high levels of protein in the hair.
+ Co-wash regularly to increase water levels in the hair.

I never had to think about protein overload in the past because, honestly, I wasn't doing protein treatments all that much. Now that my awareness is up, I'll make sure to do all I can to try to avoid this situation while reaping all the benefits of stronger hair.  Even if it can't be avoided, at least I know what to do bring balance back.  I'm seeing some good things happen ever since adding regular protein treatments into my regimen.  Now I just have to make sure everything stays that way.

Happy Endings: Can this process help stop your ends from breaking?

This  post is the third installment in a series of conversations we have with a hip length blogger by the name of Yahya, If you haven't had a chance to read Yahya's regimen in this post, stop whatever you are doing and head over there now.....I'll wait.

Her regimen is so detailed that I'm sure everyone learned from her sharing.  Me included.  Days prior to learning about her regimen, I was going for a walk when a thought crossed my mind.  I reflected back to scalp massage session I was engaged in prior to bed.  The good news was that my hair didn't shed much at all during the session.  I attribute that to my daily scalp massages.   Now here's the bad news, the amount of short broken hairs, although not excessive, was too much for my taste.  I thought to myself "if there was a way to stop, or minimize the breakage to my ends, I would be forever grateful."  After sharing my intentions, I allowed myself the freedom to continue to focus on other thoughts, knowing the answer would somehow appear.  
 

Little did I know that a solution would come to me within days.  As I'm reading Yahya's regimen, I happen upon a line that stopped me dead in my tracks.  When she said "another thing I do to my ends is to treat it with more protein than the rest of my hair," it was like a bolt of lightning struck me.  Everything she said made complete sense.  I was so intrigued by her comment that I reached out to her to find out more detail around her process.  

Here's what she stated:

"In between every other wash, like every week and a half, I co-wash my ends with a protein conditioner. Only my ends.  This also helps give my hair  some volume.  Sometimes, if I feel my ends really need it, I'll baggy them after co-washing, like a little deep conditioning treatment.  Half the time when I use protein throughout my hair, I don't apply to my new growth, especially if it's a medium or heavy protein.  When I start flat ironing my new growth, what I will do is add some protein ingredients to my caramelization treatment to give it a little extra strength against direct heat." 

 I was not privy to her exact process last week when I first posted her regimen.  But I was still excited about the idea of focusing protein on the ends.  So I decided to do something a little different last wash day.  It was time to do a strengthening treatment using my Pure Protein.  (*Side note* I love Pure  Protein because it can be used with my favorite moisturizing conditioner.  This helps me avoid having overly stiff hair following my by-weekly protein treatments.**)   I added half a capful, to a small portion my Silicon and Kamechon mix and proceeded to apply the deep conditioner  to the ends of my hair (probably the last 3 inches or so).  Once done, I waited for 15-20 minutes before mixing in more conditioner to the blend to dilute its protein contents. Then I applied it to the rest of my hair.  So the conditioner on my ends had greater protein levels then on the length of my hair and the conditioner remained on my ends longer than the rest of my hair.

Did this work?  You bet it did!  I have noticed less breakage overall but more importantly, fewer of the little broken pieces which have plagued me for so long.  I manipulated my hair quite a bit with finger styling just to make sure my eyes weren't playing tricks on me. Although it didn't stop my breakage 100%, I do see the potential in this process adding even more strength to my hair as time goes on.  It's been a while since my ends have felt as strong as they are now.  This will make a huge impact in retention in the long run.  Thank you again Yahya, for helping to inspire us.