Avoiding Setbacks | Don't let tangles rob you of your progress

I think I just narrowly avoided my first setback of 2015.   Although there were some casualties, the damage wasn't not as bad as it could have been.  I had to take some drastic action to address the situation, which, looking back, could have been avoided.  That's why I'm sharing my experience, as a reminder to myself, and hopefully as a warning to others.

My hair is prone to excessive tangling.  Actually, it graduated beyond tangles to full blown knots.  One thing I love about being texlaxed is the fullness that comes with added texture. But, on the other hand,  the coarser texture of my hair makes it a breeding ground to tangles.  When my hair is bone straight, shed hair is easily removed via finger detangling or with a comb.  I rarely straighten my textlaxed hair so it pretty much wraps itself around its neighbors as it sheds.  The longer I go without combing, the worse it gets.

And that's the problem.  I rarely comb my hair.  The only time I actually comb it is during my roller set on wash days.  The rest of the time I finger detangle.  Detangling by hand a wonderful thing unless, it's done in frequently and haphazardly.  Which is exactly what happened in my case.

But all of that is about to change.  I'm putting 100% of my energy into overcoming this issue once and for ever.  Tangles are a sensitive issue for me.  If I put off detangling, I end up with knots. If I finger detangle too frequently, I over manipulate and end up with breakage + thinning.  What's a girl to do?

Going extended periods without a well conducted detangling session is out of the question. I never want to get to a place where I 'm cutting knots out of my hair again.  The only other option is to remove the shed hairs in a way that completely avoids the negative effects of mechanical manipulation.  If my hair could withstand the detangling session with minimal breakage, I'd be set.  I received some assistance with managing breakage from Olaplex (full review to come).  Once I have the threat of breakage under control, I just have to increase frequency of detangling to avoid the worst case scenario.

Ideally, I'd like to do some form of detangling at every 1-3 days.  Preferably as part of a nightly routine before bed.  One mistake I've made when detangling in the past was to try tackling all of my hair at once.   Going forward, I'd like to divide my hair into 9 sections (three on the right side, three in the middle section, and 3 parts on the left).  If 9 sections isn't enough, I'll up it to 12.  At least that way I could be systematic about it.  Using 9 sections would also help me address the weaker areas of my hair.  Back in the day, I would divide my hair into two, maybe four sections whenever I applied product.  That, my friends, is the fastest way to experiencing damaged areas (and setbacks).  The more sections I create, the more I equitable I am in how I handle my hair.

Next are the tools for detangling. My favorite comb in the whole wide world for detangling is (The Mason Pearson rake comb).  This comb is all I need and more. I have every detangling comb known to man.  They all are now collecting dust because none of them love my hair the way my Mason Pearson does.  None of them.  Even though it's teeth aren't as wide as some of the others I own, it's gentler.  Don't know how to explain it.

 I'm putting out mental request for a product to use daily,  that'll help the shed hairs easily slide down the length of my hair without getting tangled.  When my hair was bone straight, I loved using It's a 10 Miracle Leave-In with Keratin.  I broke it out again last nigh and did a decent job.  I like that it contains strengtheners, like keratin, to help protect my hair from breakage during manipulation.  For the moment, I'm using it as a spot treatment.  Once I find my bottle of the original It's a 10 Leave-In, I'll try that out as well and compare the two.  Also got my eye on Keracare's detangling mist which has pretty good reviews.

Honestly, I would love to find a "dryer" product to fight tangles.  Something light that doesn't weigh the hair down.  I think most products on the market are aiming for the client to use while the hair is wet (after washing), I'm looking for something that can aid in detangling at any time, day or night. If I do come across this miracle detangle, you'll be the first to know.

Some other actions I'll take to deal with tangles include:

What's your favorite detangling product?  Please share your secrets to effortless detangling.

Why twist+ braid outs might be better for length retention than bunning

For the last several years, I've worn my hair in a bun pretty much daily.  Part of the reason was due to my workplace environment, the other had to do with a bit of laziness.  At first I was so sure that I'd gain all this length from constantly wearing my hair in a protective style, but years later, I'm saddened by the fact that my length retention has been less than optimal.

Part of it is my fault. As I mentioned in my bunning fail post, I did a lot of things wrong.  Looking, back, I honestly believe that my hair would have retained much more if I wore daily braid or twist outs.  I know this sounds counterintuitive but after reading some comments online from people who've retained successfully by using twist/braid outs, I believe this method of length retention could be more effective than bunning.

Let me start off by sharing my disclaimer that no method on its own is better than the other.  But, some methods of protective styling may work better for YOU than another.  I'm almost positive that braidouts/twistouts would work gloriously for me. Let me explain why.

#1.  Complete moisturizing and sealing
Whenever I do a braid out, I always hyper moisturize my hair because I know there's heavy manipulation involved. We already discussed how moisturizing hair while it's braided could mean a more even coverage so every strand receives the benefits.  When I bunned, I focused mainly on the hair that is visible.  Sections of hair went neglected. As a result, I have areas that aren't as healthy as rest.  This has been an ongoing issue ever since daily bunning became a practice.  When I mist my braid, I run my hands down the length to evenly distribute the moisture.

#2. Better Manipulation
Yes, you can argue that braids/twist require more manipulation than bunning.  And I'd agree with you to some extent. But, I would respond by saying that the manipulation is better.  Here's what I mean.  Braidouts, for the most part, don't require a comb.  So the manipulation is less harmful.  When I rebraid/retwist my hair, I can finger detangle.  This means less tangles come wash day. Which could result in less breakage.  Even though I'm handling my hair more often, I still could be losing less hair in the long run.  Also, I noticed that when I would take down my bun, I'd have some breakage.  But when I take down my braid, I don't experience the same outcome.  I contribute that to the extra moisturizing which protects my hair from the manipulation.

#3. Improved Growth?
Call me crazy but I believe that our hair grows better when it isn't constricted on a daily basis.  I was first introduced to this concept during my phone consultation following my hair analysis.  Then I decided to put the theory to the test while on an extended vacation.  I swore off a bun for weeks, wearing my hair down on a daily basis.  I'm 95% sure that my new growth came in faster than usual.  I'm keeping in mind that I probably did extra things like drink smoothies and such but I feel like my hair benefited from not having as much tension as usual.

#4. Those who do it retain like crazy
Don't take my word for it. Take a look at the hair journeys of those who mainly wear twist/braid outs.  Naturals who are religious with their twist outs enjoy mad length retention.  It's a joy to watch.  Heck, even our resident hip length relaxed haired inspiration (Hair Roots) relies on braid outs as part of her daily routine.   There's lots of proof out there that braid/twist outs can also promote great length retention.

With all that said, I still want to remind you to do what best for your hair. Remember important to modify the technique in a way the best benefits you. For instance, the fewer braids I use the better.  I love the double cornrow braid as pictured above.  If I want to use even less manipulation, I'd probably scarf twist outs daily.  They're easy to do, the results are amazing, and they don't require the tension needed to create jumbo cornrolls.  Keep in mind that I don't live a cold climate so wearing my hair down during the cooler months is much less risky than if I was wearing a wool coat everyday.

So far this idea of length retention from twist/braid outs is only a theory.  But it's one I'm willing to try out for 2015.  Anyone else think this could work well for them?

The one product everyone should have in their stash

I'm writing this post as public service announcement to everyone I know.  I don't want to be the cause of people going out and buying more product, but I still feel obligated to share this message, especially after an interesting Facebook exchange I had this week.

The product I'm talking about is It's a 10 Miracle Leave-In.  I've written about this product a couple of times before but I don't think I've truly expressed how import it is to me.  It all started when I saw a video of Tia Williams proclaiming her adoration for It's a 10 after it melted away her tangles.  So I went out and got it.  What I LOVE about this product is that it does it's job.  I bought it for one reason and one reason only, to deal with my tangles.  And that it does.

Whenever I have stubborn tangles, that once before would worry me, I simply walk over to my product stash and reach for my trusty friend.  A couple of days ago, I was contacted by a young lady who found herself in a dilemma when her hair matted up after removing her braids. My advice was to try using oil during the detangling process and, if she could, go out and by It's a 10 Leave In.  Turns out the young lady just happened to have a sample size of the product handy from her birch box kit. It was sitting there, unused, awaiting this special day.

I requested a follow up report after she used the product to let me know if it worked for her like it did for me and Tia.  The next day, I received an update.  She was able to rid herself of all the tangles using her sample sized savior.  What if fate hadn't intervened allowing her to have a bottle for  this very moment?  In her earlier message, she threatened to cut her hair if the issue hadn't been resolved.  Haven't we all been there? Suffering from tangles so severe that we figure cutting them is the only way out?  I dunno about you but I have. Now, when I get extreme tangling, I smile to myself knowing that in moments, the tangles will be a thing of the past (with very few casualties).

So that is why I'm recommending that everyone have this product on hand just in case.  I don't break out my bottle often, but when I do, I'm so glad I have it.  One thing I haven't done is actually use it as a leave-in which I will experiment with next wash day.  I'm not quite sure if I should test out their "lite version" of the leave-in for my roller set or stick with the original.  I'm also wondering about the rest of the product line since I already enjoy the original and the Keratin version..  After reading that Gabrielle Union swears by the It's a 10 conditioner, I'm contemplating  if I should try it for myself.

HAPPY ENDINGS: Sealing your ends for ultimate length retention

Life has been pretty darn good ever since I learned of Yayha's technique of applying additional protein products to the ends of our hair.  I've seen a noticeable improvement in the number of the small broken hairs that I used to be plagued with.  I didn't think things could get any better....until now.

Somehow, I stumbled upon another technique that also fortifies our ends and I'm excited to share it with you today.  This technique, my friends, is known as "sealing the ends." 

 

 

Here's how it would work.  You moisturize your hair as you normally would.  Perhaps you are employing the L.C.O. method where you start with a liquid, then your moisturizer followed by some oil to seal in the moisture.  But wait!  You're not done yet.  Finally you go back and apply another layer of oil to the ends, sealing them with even more moisture trapping goodness. 

 

Which oil should I use?

Preferably, when you are sealing your ends, you might want to reach for something that's a bit heavier in consistency than what you normally use on the rest of your hair.  I've experimented for the past several days using my Unpetroleum Jelly, which basically consists of castor oil, coconut oil, beeswax and vitamin E.  It has a thick consistency like Vaseline so I "diluted it" by mixing a little coconut oil into the mix and applied it to the last 3 inches of my hair. 

 

I also experimented with just plain coconut oil and pure vitamin E.  So far, I really like how the vitamin E feels in my hair.  As the weather conditions get harsher, I may experiment with even richer products like castor oil or pure shea butter.  This idea reminds me that I need to whip up another batch of my "Mega Omega" oil blend which I know my ends will love.

 

If some of you are concerned with walking around with greasy, oil ends, may I suggest to you to try this method at night if you want to experiment with heavier oils.  This gives the product ample time to absorb into the strand overnight.  It's been a few days since I've been utilizing this method and so far so good.  Depending on how your hair responds, you may only need to do this every few days. Or perhaps nightly, if you normally wear your hair out.  Maybe you find that you only need to seal once a week if you are constantly protective styling.  Your hair will tell you what to do. 

 

 I have a new found sense of confidence in the health of my ends.   First I learned a way to make them stronger, now this method for keeping them moist.  The timing couldn't be more perfect since drier air is fast approaching.  I should also mention that this method has been long revered by naturals to keep their ends in tip top shape.  Add this to the list of lessons we've learned.  I will keep my eyes and ears open for any other tips on creating amazingly healthy ends and post them as a part of this series. 

 

Do you have any special tips to keep your ends in tip top shape?

 

 



Seasonal Shedding? I'm not about that life

We've got to think on our feet and stay ahead of the game when it comes to this hair journey thing.  Right now, the only thing on my mind, is how to successfully avoid the excessive seasonal shedding as much as humanly possible.  I'm not talking about your normal, everyday shedding.  No, what I speak of is the viscous, non stop shedding that takes normally place right around the end of the year.

I look back to years past when I was plagued with an incredible amount of shedding.  Because of my relaxer touch-up schedule, I normally relax at the end of the year. So year after year, I would endure battle the shedding while having a bounty of new growth.  Shedding + New Growth = Tangles (massive ones).

Not this year though.  I think I have learned some tricks to help thwart my shedding. I intend to employ these techniques whole heatedly starting now. My focuses will be simple.  It's really all about making sure my scalp is well cared for while ensuring adequate circulation to the hair follicle.

Already, I'm noticing an increase flakes and dryness in my scalp.  This is not okay.  I see it as a sign of impending danger.  So I am taking the first step in my plan to prevent excessive shedding by increasing my water intake.  It's not as hot as it used to be and I'm noticing the need to drink lots of water is subsiding.  So I have decided to become more regimented in my water drinking.  Which means going back to having clear goals around how much water I consume.  Right now, I shoot for 2 liters or more a day.  Another reason why I'm drinking lots of water is maintain proper circulation throughout my body.  I have a sneaky suspicion that our circulation isn't as high in fall/winter season as in summertime which could be a factor in the shedding.

Another reason why I'm ramping up the water intake is because I'm constantly reminded of a conversation I had with a friend.  She told me that her stylist was always able to tell when she wasn't drinking enough water based on the condition of the scalp.  Then I think about some of the experiences shared on a forum when they challenged themselves to drink more water.  Several stated that their hair began to hold moisture better, others talked improved skin benefits, etc.  We, too, shall drink our water so we can experience all of that and more!

Along with the additional water intake, I also focusing on manual stimulation/circulation as well.  For over a month, I've challenged myself to exercise my scalp daily. This could include massages, scalp brushing, and even hair pulling.  Whatever I takes to bring more blood flow, I'm with it!  Whenever I consistently exercise my scalp, my shedding decreases. So, I'm committed to keep this up throughout the rest of the year.

A couple of other things I will keep doing is stimulating the scalp with essential oils on wash days (and more frequently if necessary).  Then I also need to make sure I drink lots of bamboo tea throughout fall and winter months.  The tea contains hair healthy nutrients that help my hair and scalp tremendously. Back in my vitamin rotation is cayenne pepper which is amazing at increasing internal circulation on so many levels.

 I've already employed these strategies and so far, so good.  I look forward to completing the fall/winter season without the paralyzing fear of having to battle unnecessary shedding.  Wish me luck.

Happy Endings: Can this process help stop your ends from breaking?

This  post is the third installment in a series of conversations we have with a hip length blogger by the name of Yahya, If you haven't had a chance to read Yahya's regimen in this post, stop whatever you are doing and head over there now.....I'll wait.

Her regimen is so detailed that I'm sure everyone learned from her sharing.  Me included.  Days prior to learning about her regimen, I was going for a walk when a thought crossed my mind.  I reflected back to scalp massage session I was engaged in prior to bed.  The good news was that my hair didn't shed much at all during the session.  I attribute that to my daily scalp massages.   Now here's the bad news, the amount of short broken hairs, although not excessive, was too much for my taste.  I thought to myself "if there was a way to stop, or minimize the breakage to my ends, I would be forever grateful."  After sharing my intentions, I allowed myself the freedom to continue to focus on other thoughts, knowing the answer would somehow appear.  
 

Little did I know that a solution would come to me within days.  As I'm reading Yahya's regimen, I happen upon a line that stopped me dead in my tracks.  When she said "another thing I do to my ends is to treat it with more protein than the rest of my hair," it was like a bolt of lightning struck me.  Everything she said made complete sense.  I was so intrigued by her comment that I reached out to her to find out more detail around her process.  

Here's what she stated:

"In between every other wash, like every week and a half, I co-wash my ends with a protein conditioner. Only my ends.  This also helps give my hair  some volume.  Sometimes, if I feel my ends really need it, I'll baggy them after co-washing, like a little deep conditioning treatment.  Half the time when I use protein throughout my hair, I don't apply to my new growth, especially if it's a medium or heavy protein.  When I start flat ironing my new growth, what I will do is add some protein ingredients to my caramelization treatment to give it a little extra strength against direct heat." 

 I was not privy to her exact process last week when I first posted her regimen.  But I was still excited about the idea of focusing protein on the ends.  So I decided to do something a little different last wash day.  It was time to do a strengthening treatment using my Pure Protein.  (*Side note* I love Pure  Protein because it can be used with my favorite moisturizing conditioner.  This helps me avoid having overly stiff hair following my by-weekly protein treatments.**)   I added half a capful, to a small portion my Silicon and Kamechon mix and proceeded to apply the deep conditioner  to the ends of my hair (probably the last 3 inches or so).  Once done, I waited for 15-20 minutes before mixing in more conditioner to the blend to dilute its protein contents. Then I applied it to the rest of my hair.  So the conditioner on my ends had greater protein levels then on the length of my hair and the conditioner remained on my ends longer than the rest of my hair.

Did this work?  You bet it did!  I have noticed less breakage overall but more importantly, fewer of the little broken pieces which have plagued me for so long.  I manipulated my hair quite a bit with finger styling just to make sure my eyes weren't playing tricks on me. Although it didn't stop my breakage 100%, I do see the potential in this process adding even more strength to my hair as time goes on.  It's been a while since my ends have felt as strong as they are now.  This will make a huge impact in retention in the long run.  Thank you again Yahya, for helping to inspire us.